My Stereo Setup
Weighing in at just under 30lb, this is exactly what I was looking for when adding a new stereo to my new CR. I had previously used a big trunkwell sub and trunk panel amp rack, which tipped the scales at 55-60lb... but no more!
Sub+Box is 19.5lb, Amp+Rack is 10lb. Speakers are negligible as they are the lightweight Polk MM6501's with Neodymium magnets - I'd assume they are lighter than stock.
With my Greddy SE Dual and Berk HFC, I'm saving around the exact same in weight that I've added for the stereo.
Darkside Subs V2 Enclosure with JL 10"w3v3 -- Bolted to the frame and not going anywhere!


Compact Alpine PDX-5 Amplifier in the spare tire area, pushing 104w RMS to the speakers and 410w RMS to the sub
Mounted onto a custom amp rack with industrial velcro -- rack is bolted to the frame as well:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS Head Unit -- These just hit the market, its a great unit with 16-band EQ. Had to color match the yellow CR interior of course


Constant 12V USB Charger and an AUX Audio-In jack:

Microphone placement:


New addition as of today! Modifry Dash Mount:
Sub+Box is 19.5lb, Amp+Rack is 10lb. Speakers are negligible as they are the lightweight Polk MM6501's with Neodymium magnets - I'd assume they are lighter than stock.
With my Greddy SE Dual and Berk HFC, I'm saving around the exact same in weight that I've added for the stereo.
Darkside Subs V2 Enclosure with JL 10"w3v3 -- Bolted to the frame and not going anywhere!


Compact Alpine PDX-5 Amplifier in the spare tire area, pushing 104w RMS to the speakers and 410w RMS to the sub
Mounted onto a custom amp rack with industrial velcro -- rack is bolted to the frame as well:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS Head Unit -- These just hit the market, its a great unit with 16-band EQ. Had to color match the yellow CR interior of course



Constant 12V USB Charger and an AUX Audio-In jack:

Microphone placement:


New addition as of today! Modifry Dash Mount:
very nice!
From the spec the Pioneer DEH-80PRS Head Unit requires a lot of depth to mount it, any problem with the S2000?
Can you also change the OLED screen color as well?
I am assuming you are running active crossover with this headunit right?
From the spec the Pioneer DEH-80PRS Head Unit requires a lot of depth to mount it, any problem with the S2000?
Can you also change the OLED screen color as well?
I am assuming you are running active crossover with this headunit right?
Good catch! That's something I didn't realize when I bought it. It's a pretty tight fit -- I am using Knuconceptz RCA's which have long connectors, and I think that's what it's hitting in the back. I'd get some Monster Stubby RCA's if I had to do it again, but it fits well enough to not bother me.
The radio door does hit the center control knob -- I will either trim the left side "card holder" or splurge for the stubby RCAs to make it fit better. Even with the Stubby's I'm not 100% sure it will make it all the way back.
Regarding color - you can change the OLED to anything you want, but Blue is really the only color that doesn't change contrast with different viewing angles. When you're looking at the unit head on everything is fine, but in driver's position it gets a slight haze (everything but blue/green in my experience)
No active crossover as I'm running only one amp -- I was under the impression that in order to run active I would need two amps, one for the sub and one for the speakers right?
The radio door does hit the center control knob -- I will either trim the left side "card holder" or splurge for the stubby RCAs to make it fit better. Even with the Stubby's I'm not 100% sure it will make it all the way back.
Regarding color - you can change the OLED to anything you want, but Blue is really the only color that doesn't change contrast with different viewing angles. When you're looking at the unit head on everything is fine, but in driver's position it gets a slight haze (everything but blue/green in my experience)
No active crossover as I'm running only one amp -- I was under the impression that in order to run active I would need two amps, one for the sub and one for the speakers right?
I didn't have any problems with the knob, but my door stays open 99% of the time anyway. I've found the daylight visibility to be pretty terrible no matter what color you pick. White seems to work best for me.
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Originally Posted by Driv300mph' timestamp='[url="tel:1336366251"
1336366251[/url]' post='21675012]
Good catch! That's something I didn't realize when I bought it. It's a pretty tight fit -- I am using Knuconceptz RCA's which have long connectors, and I think that's what it's hitting in the back. I'd get some Monster Stubby RCA's if I had to do it again, but it fits well enough to not bother me.
The radio door does hit the center control knob -- I will either trim the left side "card holder" or splurge for the stubby RCAs to make it fit better. Even with the Stubby's I'm not 100% sure it will make it all the way back.
Regarding color - you can change the OLED to anything you want, but Blue is really the only color that doesn't change contrast with different viewing angles. When you're looking at the unit head on everything is fine, but in driver's position it gets a slight haze (everything but blue/green in my experience)
No active crossover as I'm running only one amp -- I was under the impression that in order to run active I would need two amps, one for the sub and one for the speakers right?
Good catch! That's something I didn't realize when I bought it. It's a pretty tight fit -- I am using Knuconceptz RCA's which have long connectors, and I think that's what it's hitting in the back. I'd get some Monster Stubby RCA's if I had to do it again, but it fits well enough to not bother me.
The radio door does hit the center control knob -- I will either trim the left side "card holder" or splurge for the stubby RCAs to make it fit better. Even with the Stubby's I'm not 100% sure it will make it all the way back.
Regarding color - you can change the OLED to anything you want, but Blue is really the only color that doesn't change contrast with different viewing angles. When you're looking at the unit head on everything is fine, but in driver's position it gets a slight haze (everything but blue/green in my experience)
No active crossover as I'm running only one amp -- I was under the impression that in order to run active I would need two amps, one for the sub and one for the speakers right?
Good to know that it can change to any color for the OLED.
Yea you would need 2 amps or a multi channel amp to go active, I would get something like the JL HD900/5 .
Also try placing the Bluetooth Microphone behind the wiper stalk it has less wind noise there.







