In a noisy environment like an S2000 it's probably not worth it, unless you are a real car audiophile.

I run a bi-amped setup which is a halfway house (one output from the HU, which is then split at the amp input with 2 channels for woofers and 2 channels for tweeters but still using the passive crossover. (You need a crossover with the ability to have separate inputs for this to work) and combined with the Alpine Imprint auto EQ, it sounds fantastic.

The crossover you have will be tuned specifically for your speakers so will work very well. Whilst there's scope for improving things by running active, there's also a lot of scope for making things worse!

 

If you go active, you would omit the passive crossovers... therefore you would be 2 crossovers lighter!

Well since he has all the hardware to go active already, why not try it right? No extra cost to him, and just need to set the headunit crossover at the same point as Polk specifies initially and then can play with the settings later...

 

Quite a lot of cost in terms of the time and hassle of taking the car to bits once again, rerunning cables and then setting it all up on the head unit.

Still, it might be worth it for the weight saving

 

I went active today! Got myself a Monster i306 3-channel RCA cable and just fired it up. I believe I got the RCAs for High & Low mixed up so I need to fix that real quick (Rear is supposed to be high, front is supposed to be mids)

I'll start tuning a little bit tonight to get a good baseline. I'm definitely going to need to read up on slopes and proper frequencies to get it set up properly, but I think it will be worth it in the end.

 

The auto tune should get you pretty close

 

There's two advantages to going active with the 80PRS - the usual one is that power that goes into the passive crossover in the wrong frequency range is not wasted. The other advantage is that you can manually or through auto EQ time align the woofers and tweeters - the driver's side tweeter is obviously much closer to you than the driver's side woofer and the passenger side tweeter - and this unit corrects for that. To get similar results you would have had to add a $500 external module, so that makes the price of this HU much more reasonable. Also, you can control all of this from the passenger compartment. You want to use the sub/mid/high filters from the HU, not have interference from what the amp is doing, so set those accordingly to give room for HU adjustment.
Did you have rear speakers and what are you doing with them? This strategy means that the 4 or 5 channel amp will not be able to power rear speakers, but they could be connected to the HU speaker line outs. I'm not sure what I'm going to do there yet.
As far as visibility, I don't have this one delivered yet, but my experience with a variable color JVC Arsenal unit was that daytime was best with black on light blue background, and nightime was fine with yellow/orange on black background (to look more factory). Changing the color and the density from positive to negative for day vs. night happens when the headlights are turned on, with the dimmer connection having been made.