Nice. I think I'm going to do that. I'm going to buy a new 250/1 amp still... I think this one is shot. When I install it, I will try the areas you suggested and see if I can't find an optimal spot from them.

Thanks!

 

use a multi-meter to test the resistance from the + to the - of the sub wires. post what you measure on this thread.

be sure the sub is disconnected from the amp when you do this.


also, pull off all that insulation crap and see if it helps.

 

I pulled off all of the insulation crap after they installed the system and the amp started shutting off.

I think my amp completely died today. It won't turn back on anymore at all... After early this morning when it came back on after a few hours, it died again when I only had the volume at like 21 (I've been playing it at 24 which is 2 knotches under 75%). So, I'm going to eBay a new 250/1 and hope for the best.

 

Sounds to me like you are sending the amp into

 

jwa4378, thanks for the input.

The problem is that I bought this amp over a year ago and I got it second hand. So, JL won't cover it and neither will Tweeter.

I'm pretty sure I'm sending the amp into protect mode or I think there may be a short circuit somewhere. Why? Because during lunch today it was on again and I played it louder than last time (Same track it shut off on multiple times) it shut off and guess what, it didn't shut off!

When in protect mode, does it completely shut itself off? Or will there be a power light on or any light that lets me know it's actually working, but just not sending sound? Cause when this thing goes off, all lights are off.

If it's because I'm sending it into protect mode, then I'm insanely displeased with the ability of the 10W3v2... cause the area in which I have to adjust the gain to keep it from going into protect mode is crazy low and my 6.5's upfront make more bass than that sub does.

 

The power light should still be on, but no sound will be coming out. That is why I asked about the clipping and protect light...I am not too fimiliar with JL. My Infinity has a clip and protect light, so I know exactly when I am clipping and when I am in protect mode. Try re-tuning the amp. Tweeter may have tuned it for lower level listening, therefore clipping and protecting at higher volumes.

Are you dead set on getting another JL? My Infinity has 283W @ 4-ohms and was only $99 brand new.....they can be had for around $80. Is the sub a 2 or 4-ohm sub? I would do what Phil said, make sure the load is right for the amp....getting a new amp should be the last step.

JL technical assistance could also probably help out some. Give them a call and have them walk you through a troubleshoot.

John

 

It's a dual 4 Ohm. If you get in touch with JL Audio, they just tell you to adjust the gain according to the manual. which is setting the AC to 22.4V. I did that... the subwoofer is absolutely USELESS at that point. Even at 31.7 (if it was wired as a single 4 Ohm, but it's wired as a single 2 Ohm) it's crap. The gain is only a little less than half way up. If I have a subwoofer taking up space and weight in my trunk, I want some freakin BOOM from it... Not just a little extra bass to make the system sound good.

I'm not DEAD set on another JL Audio. I *WAS* always impressed with their subs. Was being when I had this exact same system in my prelude and it rocked my ass. I thought it would at least sound like that in the S2000. Everything I have in the car right now is JL Audio except the head unit. The components are JL's VR650-CSi's, the sub is a 10W3v2 and the amp of course...

All I want is a good sounding sub. Something that can knock some great sounding bass into my cabin. I listen to a lot of electronic music and old-school hip-hop, so bass is premium for me in my setup...

 

there's a light on the JL amps that will glow when it's in protect mode - next time it shuts down check the light

 

I have 3 times now... All lights are completely off when it shuts down.

 

Interesting.....sounds like something is fried in the internals to me.... The amp is telling you everything is groovy by not glowing the protect light, but no sound.... my Alpine V12 did this about 2 years ago, but I had that amp for almost 5 years at that point.

I am running 283WRMS, and it still does not thump that hard. If you are looking for SERIOUS thump, you may want to look closer to 400WRMS range. I have heard that the difference between 250-300 is not that great. Also look for a w6 if you are set on a JL. If not, look into Kicker, I have heard some sick bass from the Solobaric series. May also want to look into the Rockford Fosgatte subs....great power handling and good overall thump.

If you are willing to go away from JL, here are some viable alternatives for bigger boom.

Here is a Pioneer on Cardomain.com for an amp.

http://www.cardomain.com/item/PIOGM7100M

Here is a Rockford Fosgatte Stage 3 10" sub....these HIT HARD!

http://www.cardomain.com/item/ROCP310D4

John