Well, keep in mind eBay. the $450 amp is $189 + $30 shipping. The other amp I was going to get is $229 + $30 shipping. Plus of course I would need to get a distributor block and possibly a cap so that's another $150 and then some new wires, probably another $30. So, that comes out to around $650... Pretty expensive. I'd MUCH rather get a single 4 channel amp, but that BA one just mentioned is the only one I've found that supplies that much power.

 

see my edited post about the 545.

John

 

Yeah, those specs are weird to me...
RMS Power (at 12V,20Hz-200Hz)
* Bridged 4 ohms : 300W x 1 (Ch-3/4)
* Per channel into 2 ohms : 150W x 2 (Ch-3/4)
* Per channel into 4 ohms : 100W x 4

RMS Power (at 14.4V,20Hz-200Hz)
* Bridged 4 ohms : 125W x 1 (Ch-3/4), 500W x 1 (Ch-3/4)
* Per channel into 2 ohms : 250W x 2 (Ch-3/4)

What's with the 125w x1, 500w x 1? Which one is it?

But yeah, also my sub can only be wired as a 2 Ohm or 8 Ohm... I'm assuming that might be a problem?

 

Yup. Make sure whatever amp you get produces power at 2-ohm impediance. If you HAVE to get 2 amps, go to www.knukonceptz.com for wires. Cheap and good quality. They have a distribution block (last time I checked) for like $15. I do not think you will need a cap, as you will most likely not be drawing more than 800W (500 to sub and 100 to each speaker is only 600). Cap usefulness is also debated on this site....I tend to lean for them, just out of security.

Different ratings may be high-pass / low-pass...dont know.

John

 

Yeah, I called Alpine and he said none of their 4 channel amps will bridge at 2 Ohms. DAMN! I was hoping that was going to be my solution. I could have gotten that on eBay for $379! Who's idea was it to do this dual ohm crap anyway? hehe

 

But, I could still get a new 10W3v2 D2 sub. Wire it as 4 Ohm, get the 545 amp and after selling my amp and sub, I'd come out with about $250 which would cover the cost of the 10W3v2 D2 sub on ebay. and a little on the amp. I'd really only end up spending about ~$200....

Hell, I guess if I was going to do that, I could get the Rockford Stage 3 at a DVC 2Ohm and wire it up as a 4 Ohm. It's cheaper than the 10W3v2... I just wonder if it could fit in my box...

 

jeez.... this thread grows so dang fast....

dean,
i wasn't trying to be an ass or anything, but many people (and it seems your installers fall into this category) don't understand how fuses function. so, they will simply glance at them, and if they don't see a burn, it's OK! so, when you ask about it, they blow you off... confident the fuse looks fine.
i've seen this happen many a time and have even stood in shops as a customer, listening to another customer complain about similar problems (intermittent and low power) with the installers scratching their heads. finally, i get so annoyed, i butt in and ask if they checked fuses... "yeah, they look fine." "don't look, replace and test..." BAM! "wow, the fuse really looked ok.... i don't get it?"

that mono Alpine doesn't look like a bad choice by any means. note though, that at 14.4V it's pushing a bit more than just 400 Wrms @ 2 ohms.... looks closer to 600 Wrms (which is a good bit of power for a 10W3v2) still, with a little care in tuning, some judicial caution, and you should be fine.


the GT-42 doesn't sound like a bad idea at all either. but at 21" long you might want to make sure your targeted install zone can fit it.
(technically, i have the GT-40 in the van. it powers fronts and rears, but has similar power to the GT-20, which is more than adequate for the enclosed van and the wife's needs.)
now, i'm actually shopping amps again (sigh) for myself. it seems that after the first 5 years, every 1-2 years, the Adcom goes on the fritz (it is 12 years old now). i've been able to tear it down and fix it each time, but... it's at it again. so, IF i can't fix it this time, i've got my eyes on either a JL 300/2 or more likely a Boston GT-22 myself... just as a note, and kinda letting you know how happy i am w/ the GT-40 in the van.

ahem. *cough* donotneedacap *cough*

that's gotta be a typo. it probably SHOULD be 125W x 2, ...

and yeah, i don't think that amp will be stable @ 2 ohms, so it's probably out unless you go w/ the new sub plan...

 

PJK3,
I know you weren't being an ass. I just didn't want you to think I was avoiding your suggestions and help because I never was. I sincerely appreciate every bit of time everyone has spent on helping me out with this issue. I'm also learning A LOT as you guys help out as well, so I'm excited about it all!

I think I'm going to go with the new sub. I'm not sure if I'm going to go with the Stage 3 Rockford sub or stick with a 10W3v2-D2 though... I checked out the specs on the 10W3v2 and the P310D2 and here is what I noticed:

P310D2
Depth Bottom mount - 5.9 in.
Cutout - 9.22 in.

10W3v2
Depth Bottom mount - 5.75
Cutout - 9.125

So the P310D2 is a tiny bit bigger! I wonder if the .1 inch will keep it from sliding into the inclosure...

 

probably not... it depends on how much slop they left you in the whole.
but the 10W3v2 can handle more power and has more excursion... i've checked, they have the same 'sensitivity'. the 10W3v2 is quite likely to out perform the Stage 3.
try it out w/ more power before deciding, or make sure you get a money back guarantee on the Stage 3..

 

...the JL will most likely sound better than the Stage 3. Will probably cost a bit more too . I just referred the Punch stage 3 because I have had one in the past, and it hit hard. I have never had a JL sub (too much $), so take that into consideration.

Phil - I thought that the xmax was more of a theoretical excursion limit.....kind of like how Max Power is to an amp. I thought that they achieved the xmax just before the sub rips through the surround or into the magnet. I am not sure about this, though.