[QUOTE]I've pinpointed the area where voltage takes a dramatic decrease. It's going to be hard to expain,but I'll try. Maybe an ASCII diagram will work! Ok, if you're looking at the red 4 gauge wire leading off of the battery, there is a big fuse about 1 ft from the original battery connection.


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I just recommended it, because I had the "stage 3" version a few years ago, and loved it. I like the JL more (w6), but it is a LOT more expensive. I am just recommending on prior experience.



...even when it WAS running, chances are that it was not getting full power.

John

 

PJK3, I never doubted you when you told me the fuse was bad, I was just going over what I've done and stating what the guys have told me. In fact, they never tested the fuse. I asked the guy and he said "Hmm, I thought Mike tested that..." Well, of course, it was the fuse. It wasn't making a good connection with other piece of the fuse container. He put a new one in and ta-da! The speaker sounds normal!

However, I think I'm going to take your advice, PJK3 and get a better AMP. The speaker sounds like I expect it to. I removed the spare completely and the little removable wall that covered up the spare and it sounds even better at that point.

I am still thinking about this amp for the sub:
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_i...ain=10&p_more=y
It says 400w RMS at 2 Ohm and since my sub is dual 4 Ohm, currently it's wired in parallel, so that makes the amp think it's 2 Ohm, right? So this amp would push 400w RMS to the sub? If I get this amp, I still have enough money left over to get an amp for my front speakers as well.

I was thinking about getting the JL Audio 500/5, but the subwoofer output on that is only 250 as well... and, well, I want to do what you said and push more power to it. I'm sure it will sound even better at that point.

 

Yes....you speaker is wired for a 2-ohm load. That amp should push 400WRMS to it. Should work fine.

John

 

Great job Phil!~!!

 

Take his advices is the best bet you can make. He is da man
The least costly for your option is a good 2-ohm stable 4-channel amp, 2 channels to drive the front speakers, bridge the other two channels for the sub.

 

All 4 channel amps I've seen with wattage high enough to put 400w to the sub and 70w x2 to the front speakers is extremely expensive. Most of them can put 250w to the sub, but that defeats the purpose of buying a new amp for the sub to get 400w! I wanted to stick with Alpine since I've used Alpine before and liked the sound. I also like the sound of JL Audio, but all they have is the 500/5 which only puts 250 to the sub! That is like $550 on eBay...

 

Boston Acoustics GT-42 is a good 4-channel amp. The list price is around $799, there is one on Ebay from a new seller with 0 feedback, if you can get this one for less than $400 and if this amp is what seller said, it would be a very good deal. It also cost you less to install one amp as oppose to 2 amps.

GT-42 specs:
Mixed Op. Power @ 4ohm, 2ohm (14.4VDC) 2x100W, 1x450W

I bought BA GT-24 mainly because PJK3 has BA GT-22 in his minivan, and he is recommending BA amp. I am very happy with my purchase of BA amp on Ebay.

 

Nice amp indeed. I wish there were more on eBay than from someone with 0 feedback. That's always extremely scary to me. Too bad I can't use a GT-24! Found one on ebay for 375 brand new... But, alas, it's a 2 channel.

 

A believe Alpine makes one....it is like $650, but if you are going to spend $450 on the Alpine 400W amp, and say another $300 on an amp for the cabin speakers, it saves you in the long run. The MRV-F545. 14.4V output is 125WRMS (channels 3/4...doesnt say if different for 1/2) in stereo, and 500WRMS bridged (3/4).

Only thing is the 500WRMS rating is at 4-ohms....dont think you can wire your sub for 4-ohms....only 2 and 8-ohm loads (i think). Problem will be finding a 4-channel that is stable enough to be bridged at 2-ohms impediance.

John