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Nice results with Polk Audio speakers

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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 09:18 AM
  #31  
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I installed the 602a's and did not need to cut the basket. They fit just fine, except maybe sticking out a 1/4" more than the stock speaker but they don't seem to touch the door panel or anything.
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 10:22 AM
  #32  
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Originally posted by Skorpion
I installed the 602a's and did not need to cut the basket. They fit just fine, except maybe sticking out a 1/4" more than the stock speaker but they don't seem to touch the door panel or anything.
Do you have the speaker completely seated against the basket lip? There is only a 1/4" difference between the speakers you installed (EX602a) and the ones I have (EX2560). If I remember correct, there was a little more than a 1/2" interference with the basket. I could be wrong though.

EX602a
Top-mount Depth (Inches) 1 15/16

EX2560
Top-mount Depth (Inches) 2 3/16
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 10:26 AM
  #33  
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So are the polk 602a's still available? and where?
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 10:54 AM
  #34  
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Originally posted by Bri's-S2000
So are the polk 602a's still available? and where?
Look under EX602a. Crutchfield.com has them for sure. You should be able to find them at any audio store (Circuit City, Good Guy, Best Buy). They are fairly common.
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 10:56 AM
  #35  
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I installed Infinity Kappas (Crutchfield) about 6 months ago -- sounds MUCH better -- no cutting required -- used foam baffels to protect the speaker and to improve the bass response ... only a wire adapter for Honda was required which came from Circuit City -- total costs for all$140.00 .. well worth it.
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 11:28 AM
  #36  
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speedyclip, where can i get foam baffle?
thx
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 11:53 AM
  #37  
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tiberius:

No cutting of the basket is required. I did drill three holes in the basket because the existing holes did not align well enough.

Regarding the install, getting the door panels off is the hardest part. Here is the procedure:

1) Remove the screw under the door opener handle.
2) While holding the door opener handle open, slide the plastic cover slightly rearward, rotate it sideways and then slip it off the door opener handle.
3) Remove the two plastic caps on the fixed door handle.
4) Remove the two screws on the fixed door handle, leave the fixed door handle in place on the door panel.
5) Remove the black plastic clip on the upper front of the door panel, using a small screwdriver wrapped with protective tape to prevent damage.
6) The hard part: you need to release six hidden clip holding the door panel in place, two along the front edge, two along the bottom edge, and two along the back edge. The bottom two are visible through the gap at the bottom of the panel. The others are visible if you pry the door panel up slightly. Use a trim pad remover tool (snap-on #A177) or a garden/lawn weed puller tool. Insert the tool near the clip and pry outward.
7) Pull the released door panel outward and upward to release it from the side window slot. Be careful, there are wire connectors connecting the door panel and the door, detach these once the panel has been lifted away from the door slightly.
8) You now have clear access to the speaker and speaker baskets.

Two bad things can happen during step 6. First, clips themselves can be damaged. You can buy new ones from your dealer's parts department inexpensively. Second, the slot on the door panel where the clips attach can be broken or damaged. You can use epoxy adhesive to fix these problems. Trying to pull the panel off without a tool increases the chances of damage.

skorpion:

After mounting to the baskets, the EX365's also stick out a little bit more than the stock speakers. But there is no interference.
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 12:07 PM
  #38  
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From: Austin
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[QUOTE][B]Do you have the speaker completely seated against the basket lip?
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 01:13 PM
  #39  
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Originally posted by Skorpion


My 602's came with rubber spacer rings that I used inbetween the basket and the speaker, which is both the reason for the speaker not hitting the back of the basket and it sticking out slightly farther than stock.
Ahh, I don't have those. Mine have a foam lip that provides a seal. There is direct contact with the baffle on the EX2560's. I regress. The EX2560's do need to cut the basket. The EX602a's do not.
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Old Sep 26, 2001 | 06:53 PM
  #40  
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I ran an audio test sweep today to check the frequency response of the Polk EX365s. I used the Stereophile Test CD Number 3, tracks 17, 18 and 19 and measured the response with a inexpensive Radio Shack sound level meter set to C weighting. I positioned the meter centrally just in front of the wind screen on the secret compartment door. The Bass and Treble controls on the deck were set to the neutral/middle position. The car's top was down and no one was sitting in the car.

Here are the measurements. Notice the midbase resonance and the typical treble roll off. Given my experience measuring audio sustems, I think these speakers are excellent performers for car audio, especially for their price.

Hz dB
20 68
25 71
32 76
40 81
50 95
63 98
80 89
100 85
125 89
160 88
200 89
250 87
315 85
400 81
500 81
630 80
800 80
1k 85
1.3k 83
1.6k 79
2k 75
2.5k 77
3.2k 79
4k 83
5k 83
6.3k 85
8k 82
10k 77
13k 77
16k 75
20k 68
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