When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Originally Posted by MacGyver,Oct 6 2005, 04:37 PM
Sometimes I just need a hard push to finish certain projects within a short time frame. The brakelights have been waiting long enough. Ever since my emissions air pump died and I saw that a new one is $450, I've been considering a module to remove the CEL trigger for it and just run without one. Seems more than a few are interested in something like that. Often times the push I need is as simple as I want the item.
Dunno about the fancy animations. Just a really bright "on" with an even brighter "brake" would make me happy as a pig rolling in his own excrement.
An idea that has come up in the last few years is a mechanical method of bypassing the downstream O2 sensor. (I know it's the electrinics forum, and there are NO electronics in my solution)
You can get spark plug "anti-foulers" or sometimes referred to as non-foulers. They come as a set of two. You drill a 1/2" hole in one of them (making the opening bigger) and then thread the two together and put your O2 sensor into the anti-foulers and then into the test pipe. In this way the O2 sensor is not in the direct emmission stream and so it reads as it should. No wiring involved.
There are numerous documented cases of this on this and other sites with no ill-effects and no CEL indicators.
Originally Posted by MacGyver,Oct 5 2005, 03:27 PM
If you're looking for some LED brakelights, you have perfect timing I'm working on a nice, bright set (with user-selectable animations, too). I'm supposed to have the proto PCB in my hands by beginning of next week. Expect something ready by the end of this month
Not to hijack alex's thread, so I'll just give a to what Pete said on the extra bungs. Doing that, and getting rid of the heavy air pump at the front is what I'm shooting for...
As far as the brakelights go... looks like they tried to deliver the proto boards today, but didn't leave the package (don't know why...). I'll leave a signed note telling them to leave it this time. Once I have it in my posession, I can start working on the code. I hope more than a couple people are truly interested in these... I really want these for myself, so I'm moving forward with it regardless, but I don't want to eat too much money.
As far as the animations go, it will be user selectable... you can turn it all off, or select from a couple of different animations. Who knows, you may like what I've come up with.
Oh, and Bryan? Traiters don't get to be guinea pigs J/K... although I will expect you to get rid of that "other" kit once mine is finished (...in 10-15 years ).
Hijack all you want MacGyver, I just wanna see some LED brake lights!
ruexp67, thanks for the tip, but it's still a bit Greek to me. Are you saying that the anti-foulers leave the O2S exposed only to atmospheric air (which is trapped inside the non-foulers)? If that were the case, would it not be the same exact thing as leaving the O2S out of the catalytic converter, zip-tied to the frame?
Originally Posted by MacGyver,Oct 10 2005, 04:52 PM
Not to hijack alex's thread, so I'll just give a to what Pete said on the extra bungs. Doing that, and getting rid of the heavy air pump at the front is what I'm shooting for...
As far as the brakelights go... looks like they tried to deliver the proto boards today, but didn't leave the package (don't know why...). I'll leave a signed note telling them to leave it this time. Once I have it in my posession, I can start working on the code. I hope more than a couple people are truly interested in these... I really want these for myself, so I'm moving forward with it regardless, but I don't want to eat too much money.
As far as the animations go, it will be user selectable... you can turn it all off, or select from a couple of different animations. Who knows, you may like what I've come up with.
Oh, and Bryan? Traiters don't get to be guinea pigs J/K... although I will expect you to get rid of that "other" kit once mine is finished (...in 10-15 years ).
Actually Dan I've had a problem or two with that 'other' kit's board. THe connector for the remote is loose and doesn't always make the connection. Maybe I can send you the board and you can fix it for me? I tried to remove it myself but it didn't work and I didn't want to ruin the board. The board itself still works perfectly; just the remote Stereo plug is loose when in the connector; go figure. Anyway you know I'm still a loyal customer and when your UB kit is complete I have plenty of tips for the actual installation instructions which I'd be happy to help you out with. In any case you know I'm still a loyal customer - just impatient. You'll be happy to know that your windscreen is still working perfectly in my S (yes Serial #1 ) and I'm still waiting for the gauge cluster mod (#1 in line for that one )
I'm very much interested in piloting this and any other mod you come up with. You know I'm definately savy enough and I know the electrical system in the S pretty well now with all the electronics installs I've done. Send it my way when its complete, I'll take pics for the install manual and pics of the installed product...I'm always down to help you out and drum up interest for you!
alex, you put a hole in the side of the bungs for access to open air, then use the bungs as the new screw-in site for the sensor. Uou still have exhaust gases flowing by the sensor, but the extra hole also allows some more fresh air to it, as well. Combine the exhaust with some fresh air and the ECU thinks the cat is doing its job by reducing emissions. All you're really doing is diluting the amount of emissions the sensors sees. It's a pretty slick trick, if you ask me... sure beats a simulator.
No, no, no. Don't drill in the sides, that would cause an exhaust leak.
The anti-foulers are couplings. They look like pipe fittings, one side is female and the other end is mail. Each one is about 3/4" long. There is a hole that goes all the way through, but it is only about 3/8" in diameter. So you need to drill the whole a little bigger to make it 1/2" diameter so the end of the O2 sensor will fit. Then screw the drilled one into the undrilled one. Then the O2 sensor into the assembly. It moves the end of the O2 sensor back away from the exhaust stream and blocks some of it's readings.
Sorry, this is the best picture I can find and it's of an already installed unit.
I'm working on a nice, bright set (with user-selectable animations, too). I'm supposed to have the proto PCB in my hands by beginning of next week. Expect something ready by the end of this month 
to what Pete said on the extra bungs. Doing that, and getting rid of the heavy air pump at the front is what I'm shooting for...
