Ordered kapa perfect components, harness help needed
that should cover just about everything but the speaker wire for the sub... and that's easy to find... just about anywhere sells 12 ga in bulk.
and yes, you should be able to just install the Kappas now. you'll probably have to cut the OEM speaker harness and do some splicing...
and yes, you should be able to just install the Kappas now. you'll probably have to cut the OEM speaker harness and do some splicing...
Like everyone said, you can, but.....
to make life easier......
Since you are already going into the doors.....
Hook up your crossovers.
Run speaker wires (hide them for now)
This will save you some time later on.
Oh, and STAY AWAY FROM CAPACITORS!!!!!!!
to make life easier......
Since you are already going into the doors.....
Hook up your crossovers.
Run speaker wires (hide them for now)
This will save you some time later on.
Oh, and STAY AWAY FROM CAPACITORS!!!!!!!
As I explained in other threads, capacitors do not do what everyone thinks they do. You do not need one, trust me. Run the wires from the doors, to the trunk. If you leave the crossovers in the doors, then each speaker only needs 1 wire going to the trunk, for the amps. If the crossovers are going in the trunk, then you need to run 2 sets of wires for each speaker.
put the crossover in the door, unless you want to show it off... there's actually a nice location on the inside portion of the door where you can readily mount a crossover (it's on the interior side of a plastic liner, so it should be weather protected as well. just be cautious with how you do the final mounting, so you don't accidentally drive a screw through the door panel. once you get it open, you'll see what i mean. i can drag up some pics if you'd like me to...
regarding wiring, there are two choices here... one is the lazy method (and probably inferior) and one is the more appropriate way...
lazy=
you can run the speaker wires from the trunk to the dash, then when you get your amps in, tie them into your current harness (instead of your head unit's speaker wires).
maybe better way=
run speaker wires from the trunk to the front of the car. then pass those wires from the cabin into the door using the current grommets and wire paths, then tie those speaker wires into your aftermarket setup.
and everything i've read has stated that capacitors do nothing for stereos in terms of output or stability (at least in the under kilowatt range)... (sources range from online reviews, to modifry's experiments, to the info at www.bcae1.com ). the only thing that i never could establish as true or not, was whether caps would eliminate a dimming problem on hard hitting bass...
i can vouch for this much -- if you have a dimming problem on hard bass, spend the $100 you would on a cap on a Yellow Top battery instead... w/ both my battery and dimming problems, i took this route (knowing i needed a battery anyway), and the Yellow Top has virtually eliminated any dimming issues i had...
regarding wiring, there are two choices here... one is the lazy method (and probably inferior) and one is the more appropriate way...
lazy=
you can run the speaker wires from the trunk to the dash, then when you get your amps in, tie them into your current harness (instead of your head unit's speaker wires).
maybe better way=
run speaker wires from the trunk to the front of the car. then pass those wires from the cabin into the door using the current grommets and wire paths, then tie those speaker wires into your aftermarket setup.
and everything i've read has stated that capacitors do nothing for stereos in terms of output or stability (at least in the under kilowatt range)... (sources range from online reviews, to modifry's experiments, to the info at www.bcae1.com ). the only thing that i never could establish as true or not, was whether caps would eliminate a dimming problem on hard hitting bass...
i can vouch for this much -- if you have a dimming problem on hard bass, spend the $100 you would on a cap on a Yellow Top battery instead... w/ both my battery and dimming problems, i took this route (knowing i needed a battery anyway), and the Yellow Top has virtually eliminated any dimming issues i had...
i don't know....
i got an Optima Yellow Top. http://www.optimabatteries.com/
the yellow top is their brand name for the deep cycle batteries. they use a spiral coil paste medium that supposedly is quite good for handing deep cycling and for longevity. i'm not sure what the Stinger option is, but it sounds like they are trying to compete w/ the Optima, and based on some research, i think the Optima is a well established name and has a good reputation...
on their site, they don't show that there's a compatible battery for the S2000, but i promise you... there is.
i paid $125 locally. i could have gotten it for as low as $115 online, but i would have had to wait a week or more for shipping... you'll need/want a type 51 - NOT a type 51R.
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...llow+top+optima
i got an Optima Yellow Top. http://www.optimabatteries.com/
the yellow top is their brand name for the deep cycle batteries. they use a spiral coil paste medium that supposedly is quite good for handing deep cycling and for longevity. i'm not sure what the Stinger option is, but it sounds like they are trying to compete w/ the Optima, and based on some research, i think the Optima is a well established name and has a good reputation...
on their site, they don't show that there's a compatible battery for the S2000, but i promise you... there is.
i paid $125 locally. i could have gotten it for as low as $115 online, but i would have had to wait a week or more for shipping... you'll need/want a type 51 - NOT a type 51R.http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...llow+top+optima


