I installed the PAC SWI-3 in my 2000 S2k (#7565) using the specified 2.7k resistor between the SWC input and ground. I couldn't program the PAC once I installed it. The symptom was that the first LED would turn on then immediately off when I pushed the program button. The SWI-3 would then be frozen. I fixed the problem using a 4.7k resistor instead of the 2.7k. The 3.3k specified for model year 2001 may have worked, but I didn't have one sitting around. So try replacing the 2.7k resistor with a 3.3k or 4.7k if you have the same problem after installing a PAC into a 2000 S2k.

 

See my website for that problem and others (and their solutions...).

 

Great post, I'm doing the install right now and using the 2.7 on my MY2000. The I pressed the program - light goes on for 1 sec then off - frozen. I was just going to try a 3.3. I'll let you know how it goes. "orange orange red gold" right = 3.3k? I gotta brush up on my stuff.

 

Yep it was the 2.7k res. that was the problem. I replaced it with a 3.3k and it works great. I didn't bother to hook up the mute.

I ended up soldering in the car which I really tried to avoid but i was careful. I had a cookie tray on my lap!

One of the ways I got the signal remote wire was removing a green rear speaker wire from the Honda harness thats not used anyway. So you only have to have 1 honda harness.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by lucid
[B]One of the ways I got the signal remote wire was removing a green rear speaker wire from the Honda harness thats not used anyway.

 

Barry I think what he is talking about is that the Mute button is in the wire harness on the car.. The after market wiring harness does not have a wire for the mute button and but has a slot in the harness for it.. What I did & look like lucid is backed out one of the wires in the after market harnes that was not being used like one for the rear speakers & put it in the slot for the mute button.. Very easy & nice looking install... Hope this helps...

 

GREAT...perfect explanation and that will save me time. I have bought male and female adapters (70-1721 and 71-1721) to "break out" the speaker output wires and the antenna motor wire to supply signal to the amp and to turn on the amp. Also I will "break back in" the amp output to speaker connection.

I'll have to look at the harness and move one lead like you did to keep the mute control going through the patch to the radio.

I hadn't thought of that before this post. Thanks.

Barry

 

The standard honda harness had I think 5 unused leads 4 for the rear speakers and a dimmer. I pulled all 5 out but put one back in *green* in pin 3 for the green PAC signal wire. It slides really easily - piece of cake. just remember the resistor - orange/orange/red/gold.