How's it going EJ's? Looking at building my first system for my car, and been talking with an EJ on here for advice/recommendations. I'm already a little over what I wanted to spend ($1000), but willing to spend a little more ($250) to make sure everything is right, and going to perform right. So here we go!

HU: IDA X305. Seen people have it fit with no problems, so I'm going with it.
http://signature.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...&ssi=0&skipvs=T

Components: Alpine Type-R SPR-17S. Had these recommended to me.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...LQ57PZ&v=glance

Sub: JL Audio 10W3v3-2 10" 1000 Watts. Not much to say about it..
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...O2P52Z&v=glance

Amp: Alpine MRP-M500. 500 watt RMS monoblock. Sub can handle 100-500 RMS. Had this amp recommended, along with the sub.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...g=UTF8&v=glance

Power wires: Monster MPC P300 BAP1000 1000watt Power kit. Couldn't find much info on it, but it list that it should have enough power wire, according to DarkKnights install thread.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...KX0DER&v=glance

RCAs: Monster MPC I306 6C-5M Extra Low-Noise 6-Channel. Amazon has a combo deal for them, plus I use Monster cables for home stereo. Says 5 meters (16.4 feet?) so it should reach, if I read right.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...AXLHDG&v=glance

Speaker wire: Monster MPC S402 SW-5M Extreme Low Noise 2-Conductor Speaker Wire. Once again, 5 meters (16.4 feet?). I think that should be enough. DarkKnight Recommends 4 conductor, but I don't understand why. Is it because he runs each component and tweeter off a seperate pair of conductors? Should I switch to 4conductor instead?
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...KX0DER&v=glance

Speaker Wire option 2: Just found this before I posted it, to try to see how much 4 conductor would be, and it's about the same price. Here is the link to it. It's Monster MPC S304 4C-7.5M Extra Low Noise 4-Conductor Speaker Wire (7.5 meters)
http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPC-S304-4C-...60211098&sr=8-3

Battery Terminal: Monster 300 Positive SlimLine Monster Battery Terminal (MPC P300 SLM BC3+) Looks like what DarkKnight recommended. It says one comes in the Power wire kit, but It doesn't say exactly what it is, and now re-reading it, it says it's a distro block, so I don't know if I'd even need to use it. Would I? Here's the link to the battery terminal block I was looking to buy instead.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...KX0DER&v=glance

I still need to get a sub box. I'm in between DarkSideSub's boxes, or the ones that BerlinaS2k2/Go-Tuning makes.
Darkside: http://www.darksidesubs.com/v2.htm
Berlina's: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=745895&hl=

Without the Sub box it's at around $935. For the Dark Sides, it's Roughly $1120, and With the Berlina's, it's $1060~ (If he still has the same prices as when I asked last month before he merged with Go-Tuning).

Alright, Conclusion time/Final Questions.

1) Any recommendations for the setup? (Keeping the cost under $1250).
2) Do I have enough cables? How many sets of RCA's will I need?
3) Should I get a 4 Channel amp for the components?
4) Instead of the 4 Channel amp (Since I think it would send me over budget), would http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pre3gjf0ixo/p...Power-Pack.html be a good option instead?
5) Throw out any thing that crosses your mind, I'm hoping this will become a discussion about opinions/options.
6) I've been doing research, and looking/comparing things for the past month or so, and my mind is literally mush right now, so I'm mostly just posting this for others to double check that I'll have everything I need, or if anyone has other recommendations.
7) Any input is welcomed, Good or bad.
8) Thanks in Advanced guys. Hope to join you EJ's after I get this installed

Edit: Found this 2 channel amp, which I think would work well with the speakers. Any opinions? Pioneer GM-3300T 2-Channel 300-Watt Max, 75 rms at 2 ohms.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-3300T-2-C...U/ref=de_a_smtd

 

I'm not sure those are the speakers you want if you aren't doing a 4 channel amp for the components. I personally would (amp the speakers), but it will make the cost go up to do that right. If you want to spend more ($1500 or so) you can get a lot more sound, but you will already have a great improvement over stock with $1000.

If you run the speakers off the deck's power, you don't need speaker wire at all except for the short run from the amp to the sub, and I'd use a short run of 12 gauge for that. You'd probably pick a better speaker setup for a lower wattage--something like tang band tweeters and a decent paper cone woofer that will have a better response with the up to 18WRMS of the deck. You'd still have to figure something out for the crossover, but you'll get a much nicer sound for similar money by the time it's pieced together.

And if you choose to amplify it, I'd get a different amp and go straight to the PPI component set that's been praised repeatedly here.

You need 1 set of RCAs per channel you amplify. If you just amp the sub, you just need one cable. If you amp the sub and a front channel (run to the component crossover), you need 2 RCAs. You probably don't want to mess around with going active yet, so you shouldn't need 3 RCAs this time. (Active basically means you amplify tweeters and midbass separately under different channels on the amp.)

As for completeness of the kit, it's reasonable--can't think of anything offhand that's missing anyways. I think you'd be fine. I would add the modifry DCI (dash control interface) -- at ~$100 it was money well spent to me, YMMV. It works just as described, and it's easy for you to decide if you care. And FYI you can usually get better prices than amazon, but they aren't bad either.

Are you doing the install yourself?

Sorry if this is a bit of a hodge-podge of thoughts, I'll check the thread again.

 

Screw Monster Cable, it's all ridiculously overpriced for what you get. Check out http://www.knukonceptz.com instead.

 

There was mention of running a 4 channel amp, and just running my sub off the 4 channel. The person I was talking with mentioned running a 300/4 JL audio, and running the sub off of that, but I don't want to under power my sub.

I was looking to replace the stock speaker wire, just to upgrade the quality of the wire while I was replacing everything else..

For the PPI's, Are you talking about the PPI 356CS? And if I did go that route, do you have a recommendation for an amp? The PPI's are roughly the same price, but like I said, I'm a little flexible on the budget, but of course would like to keep it as low as possible.

I did plan of getting dash controls, but looking at like two-three Options (DCI, Pac-Alp(?), and another one maybe, can't remember).

I did plan on doing the install myself.

Edit:

Also: What do you think about running the PPI 356CS speakers, with that Alpine PowerPack? The PPI's are rated at 60 RMS, and the Power Pack is rated at 45 RMS.

I'm not looking to build an audiophile sound system. I'm mostly just building thing for the increased bass, and to have a more powerful system, that I can hear with the top down, without having it maxed out.

If you guys would rather talk to me on AIM, than here, my AIM is provided in my profile, or under my post.

 

Given what you've just described, I'd look at the PPI 356CS with something like the sundown audio SAX-125.2 (or Alpine PDX 2.150 if you want alpine) for the component amp. Ideally something that puts out around 75-125WRMS of clean power. You'll need a spacer or something to install it--find the thread and have a look. But it will sound a lot better.

If you want a lot of bass, I'd get 500+WRMS for the sub amp like you have, but I'd get a different amp. Or get that amp from a different source for much less--just google product search it and you can get it around $150, not $250. If you want big bass, get either a 12" or 2 10" subs, not just one ten. A single 12" sub produces a LOT more bass than a single 10", but I personally like the precision of a 10" better than the volume of a 12".

If you don't replace the speakers AND amplify them; I wouldn't waste the time or money replacing the wiring without an amp. Spend the money on speakers instead and you'll get a much better return on investment. Speakers like the ones in this thread are going to be better, but you'd need a crossover--this set won't work:
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=742383

Monster's wires are pretty pricey. It looks like you're planning to spend half your budget on wiring, enclosure, and peripherals. You'd do well to reduce that portion of your budget and spend more of it on the components of the stereo itself.

And dynamat / something like that may be worth thinking about.

 

The wiring is pretty pricey. I'm looking at ways to cut cost on that. I'm still shopping for options, which is why I was asking.

The amp is selling for $142~, but they main source they have listed has it for $240. I originally picked it because it was listed for like $132, but the seller sold out yesterday

Another option instead of the Alpine would be http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Pri...60220478&sr=1-2

My reason for going with a 10, instead of a 12 is because the boxes I am looking at don't offer 12" mounting on the side, due to the trunk hinge. I could go with a 12 inch toolwell, but I haven't looked at options for tool well enclosures yet.

I'm still trying to figure out where I should spend more money, and where I should spend less money.

HU: $260 (Fixed cost)
Components: PPI 356CS $135 ( Lowest I could find)

I did happen to find the Sundown SAX-125.2 only for $240. So if I add that with the components/HU, I'm at $635.

I'm ditching the monster cable requirement then, and now looking for recommendations for basically everything else. Everything else being: Terminal Distro Block, Wiring, Sub, enclosure, and Amp. If it does happen to be a 12" sub, I would rather make the fiberglass toolwell box myself, using the tutorial, and save the $100+ that it would cost to buy a pre-made one.

Ace, you have been extremely helpful, and Agate, thank you for that website.

Edit: been looking more and more at the site Agate recommended, and found http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KOL-AK44 . Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that has every wire I will need. I will still need the Terminal distro block (I like the Monster one... http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...KX0DER&v=glance ). Which would put me at $715.

Edit Edit: Just found a tool well box on ebay for $62, which I don't mind the looks of. So, there is more money to be spent in other places.

 

What do you guys think of RF Amps? Found a combo of a $294~ which includes:

Rockford Fosgate Prime R300-4 300 Watt Multi Channel Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate Prime R500-1 500 Watt Mono Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate 8 AWG Amplifier Install Kit with Interconnect

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R30...d_bxgy_e_text_b

(curls up in the fetal position and cries) So many choices...

If I went that route, Those amps, wiring kit, hu, and speakers would put me at roughly $700. $82 for the sub box, $30 for speaker wires, which would leave me roughly $200 to spend on a sub, and stay under budget.

Opinions? I would bridge two channels of the 4 channel amp together, to power the components.

 

With the systems you've suggested, I'd want 4AWG (or bigger) for the amp kit--8 gauge might be a bit small if you do a dual amp setup. Don't forget RCAs.

I used to have an old school RF Punch 45, but I haven't owned any of their recent products. If I were you I'd look for a 2 channel amp for the speakers since that's all you'll need and a 1 channel 500+WRMS mono amp for the subwoofer. If you break your budget just a little you can get a REALLY nice setup IMO.

The one thing you really wanted though was some bump in the trunk. If you can inflate your budget a bit -- Xmas, right? -- you can get a 0 gauge kit and then go with a 1000W mono amp and suitable subwoofer. Here's one just to get you started, though I'd guess there are a few better deals out there:
http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/p...000D-Combo.html

You wouldn't want for bass, that's for sure! (That's a lot more than I want!) That would sound pretty good when you turn the sub down but absolutely beat the block down whenever you want it to. But you'll actually be able to hear the music--an acoustic track will still give you chills--which is something you don't get when you amplify the subwoofer to >500WRMS without touching the speakers.

HU
IDA-X305 - $260

Subwoofer
0 gauge dual amp kit plus terminal block - $140?
10" sub and 1000WRMS amp - $539
sub box - $100?
Total: $780

Speakers
SAX-125.2 for $240
PPIs $135
RCA cables x 2, 14 ga. speaker wire, MDF spacer - $100?
Total: $475

Later:
Dynamat the trunk, doors, and whatever else rattles - $150 or so?
Pick up a DCI at $100

That puts you right about $1500 now and $1750 down the road--a fair bit over the target budget of $1000. But that sounds like a *much* better system for what you want than what you initially proposed, so you won't be constantly tempted to upgrade or wish you'd done it differently.

Is that too much to spend if you get components over a few months? That's how I'm having to do it to get the system I want.

 

Well. The main thing now is deciding on the sub. I want to order everything, and put it together, but it mainly depends on the sub, because the sub determines how I wire it. (sighs).

My mom's agreed to buy the HU, and like $100 worth of wiring for my Christmas present, which puts me back on budget.

HU: Alpine iDA-X305 ($260)
Components: PPI 356CS ($135)
Component Amp: Sundown Audio SAX-125.2 ($240)

Questions:
1) Should I get a 10", or a 12"? I'm leaning towards the 12", because it's only $20 more, seems to fit my music style better (from what I read), and the box is cheaper (By > $100). The 10" requires .70 cu, but has .90 optimal listed. The 12" requires 1.0 cu, but has 1.25 listed as the optimal, and the boxes are 1.0 cu feet.
2) For the wiring kit I'm looking to get , http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...rodID=KFX-PK20 , What should I get for the in line fuse type, and the two fuse block fuse types?
3) When wiring the speakers, the Sundown SAX-125.2 is rated for 125wrms at 4 ohms. and the speakers are rated at RMS: 120 watts per set / 60 watts each side, and at 4 Ohm's. Do I wire them in Parallel, Series? or how? (I ALWAYS Hated doing electrical shit in physics.)
4) Any recommendations for RCA's?
5) If I got the positive Terminal block, should I also get a negative terminal block?
6) Just realized that they don't have remote wire for the amps. Any recommendation? Would I be able to just run one remote wire, and run it to both amps?
7) Anything else you guys see that I would need?

8) Any recommendations for speaker wire, and speaker wire gauge? 14 or 16? What do you think of http://www.amazon.com/Monster-MPC-S304-4C-...60211098&sr=8-3
Doesn't list what Gauge it is though.

 

the stock s2k alternator is not going to give you enough current to run all the stock electronics + the 1250 watt rms that you are trying juice out.

unless you plan to upgrade your alternator, you should stick within 700W rms and the Knukoncpetz 4 GA kit would be all you need. In return, you can the money to buy components of higher quality etc.

3) one to one, nothing special here. You'll be driving the speakers with half of what the amp can output.

4 & 8) And again, with the level of your equipment, Knukonceptz's mainstream wiring products are enough already. Knu's premium RCA & speaker wires are going to be a total over kill.

5) it is all up to you

6) remote wire is just a simple wire. It only carries a constant +12V with almost no current and functions only as a turn on trigger. You can use whatever wire you want. And yes, your HU can turn on both fine. You'd only need a relay if you are turning on more than 2.

7) Redesign your setup and maybe add a little dynamat or hushmat. Don't go overboard on the mats though, just use them for backwave cancellation and rattles. No matter what you do, the S2k is just too noisy, and if you fixed that, it means the car is no where near its stock weight. FI and more $$ to get the car back to its speed, lol

*Can't believe I spelled current "curry" lol