Radar Detector-- EAAAASY way to hook it up near rear-view mirror
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Radar Detector-- EAAAASY way to hook it up near rear-view mirror
I took my V1 power cord (had an extra one), cut it... checked the voltage on the pins.. FYI-- Green is +12, Red is Ground.
Took the dome-light housing off (flat head screw driver on the clear plate, THEN 2 bolts underneith, THEN remove 2 8mm bolts..THEN remove the plastic housing (flat head) by prying nearest the windshield).
+12volts is the White/Blue wire, Grey is the ground... splice in and connect... put back togeather, and you have your connection for your radar detector...CAKE!
The only 'down' side is that it ALWAYS has power-- even with key off. This is 'okay' for me because I always take my radar detector down when I park. [Although I suspect you could leave it on for weeks before even putting a dent in the car battery].
-- Aaron
Took the dome-light housing off (flat head screw driver on the clear plate, THEN 2 bolts underneith, THEN remove 2 8mm bolts..THEN remove the plastic housing (flat head) by prying nearest the windshield).
+12volts is the White/Blue wire, Grey is the ground... splice in and connect... put back togeather, and you have your connection for your radar detector...CAKE!
The only 'down' side is that it ALWAYS has power-- even with key off. This is 'okay' for me because I always take my radar detector down when I park. [Although I suspect you could leave it on for weeks before even putting a dent in the car battery].
-- Aaron
#2
You're right-on with the hook-up. I don't have a clue about current drain, but I'd guess a few days would be OK, but longer would put a dent in your cranking power.
I had actually started building a small module that could be installed behind the light assembly that would sense the charging voltage of the car and switch on the detector as soon as you crank the car up, and shut it down when the battery voltage dropped after shut-off.
After some testing I found it needed a 3 minute delay on shut-off though, because there are occasions where the regulator will stop charging the battery for as long as 2 minutes. I got busy on other projects and never finished it. Oh well.
I had actually started building a small module that could be installed behind the light assembly that would sense the charging voltage of the car and switch on the detector as soon as you crank the car up, and shut it down when the battery voltage dropped after shut-off.
After some testing I found it needed a 3 minute delay on shut-off though, because there are occasions where the regulator will stop charging the battery for as long as 2 minutes. I got busy on other projects and never finished it. Oh well.
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Attach another wire to the gauges fuse in the panel on the driver's side, under the dash. Run another wire up through the A pillar from the fuse box to the dome light. Use it to power the detector. When the ignition goes off, so will the detector.
If you don't like that solution, a 12V micropower voltage regulator, comparator, 555 timer, and a power transistor would make a simple circuit that would turn off power to the detector after the voltage is below 14V for a few minutes. However, it'd likely be easier just to run a new wire.
- Warren
If you don't like that solution, a 12V micropower voltage regulator, comparator, 555 timer, and a power transistor would make a simple circuit that would turn off power to the detector after the voltage is below 14V for a few minutes. However, it'd likely be easier just to run a new wire.
- Warren
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Err.. if I wanted to run wires down the A-Piller, I would have tapped into +12v that came on when the accessorys were on (key in), instead of +12v [always on]... Sorry to confuse..
Hehe.. I just didn't want to run wires down the pillers...lazy.
-- Aaron
Hehe.. I just didn't want to run wires down the pillers...lazy.
-- Aaron
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amartin,
Gotcha, right -- that's what I meant with the whole gauges fuse bit -- it's only hot when the ignition is on. There are a couple of unused fuse holders wired that way, too, specifically for accessories (thanks Honda!).
- Warren
Gotcha, right -- that's what I meant with the whole gauges fuse bit -- it's only hot when the ignition is on. There are a couple of unused fuse holders wired that way, too, specifically for accessories (thanks Honda!).
- Warren
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#8
I have a 8500 radar detector with the phone line connection. Is it possible to splice into the dome light as stated above?
I hate to fork out $30 to Escort for a Direct Wire connection.
By having the radar mounted high by the rearview, isn't it highly visible to law enforcement?
Thx
CDawg
I hate to fork out $30 to Escort for a Direct Wire connection.
By having the radar mounted high by the rearview, isn't it highly visible to law enforcement?
Thx
CDawg
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Since its the 2 middle wires for power/ground, I suspect that will work just fine!
-- Aaron
(Actually, I've tried it, and it works)
...its just that telephone wire has a string of 'rope' through it that makes it hard to solder..
-- Aaron
(Actually, I've tried it, and it works)
...its just that telephone wire has a string of 'rope' through it that makes it hard to solder..