I would like the electric windows to work when the ignition is switched off. Is this possible and how easy is it?

 

I hope someone posts here soon. I'm very interested in this mod too...

 

I will nag my installer over the next day or 2 to see if he can help.

 

Last week I emailled information to HondaGal to post in the S2KI.com FAQ section (http://s2ki.s2000online.com/faqs). Hopefully she will post it soon. It had photos and diagrams, but here are the instructions:

Parts Required:
22Gauge wire (Radio Shack #278-1224)
Insulated female&male quick-disconnects (R/S #64-4040)
3A Mini-fuse (R/S #270-1089)
30A Fuse Holder (R/S #276-1237)

Tools Needed:
Fuse Puller (in the fusebox)
Wire Cutters
Electrical Tape
Crimp Tool or Pliers

This mod requires cutting and Splicing wires. So use care to insure that power is removed from wires before cutting. The normal disclaimer, that I am not responsible for anything that goes wrong, applies.

Step 1. Disconnect the Positive terminal of the battery.

Step 2. Remove the panel in the dashboard that is in front of the passenger seat. Where a Glovebox would normally be. Also remove the Driver's side Kickpanel (beside the Dead Pedal).

Step 3. Locate the Convertible Top Control Unit. It has two large connectors on it. The one on the left is Connector A, and the one on the right is Connector B.

Step 4. On Connector B, locate the Yellow wire in the upper left corner of the connector (Figure 1)

Step 5. Cut the yellow wire several inches back from the connector. I unwrapped the wire bundle and made the cut there.

Step 6. Wire a Quick Disconnect to the wire still attached to the Connector.

Step 7. Wire a matting Quick Disconnect to a piece of 22 Gauge Wire. I also wired a matting connector on the original wire so it can be returned to normal easily.

Step 8. Connect the 22 Gauge wire to Connector B and wrap the connection with Electrical Tape. Wrap the free end of the original wire with Electrical Tape also, it will have voltage when the Ignition Key is on.

Step 9. Run the 22 Gauge wire to the Fusebox.

Step 10. Locate the Connector C502. It is a large Grey connector below the Engine Control Unit (ECU), the big metallic box above the Dead Pedal (Figure 2).

Step 11. Locate the Green wire with Black Stripe coming out of the Engine Compartment side of the connector. Cut it several inches back from the connector.

Step 12. Wire a Quick Disconnect to the wire still attached to the Connector C502.

Step 13. Wire a matting Quick Disconnect to a piece of 22 Gauge Wire. I also wired a matting connector on the original wire so it can be returned to normal easily.

Step 14. Connect the 22 Gauge wire to Connector C502 and wrap the connection with Electrical Tape. Wrap the free end of the original wire with Electrical Tape also, it will have voltage when the Ignition Key is on.

Step 15. Run the 22 Gauge wire to the Fusebox.

Step 16. Connect both 22 Gauge wires to the Fuse Holder.

Step 17. Wire a Female Quick Disconnect to the Fuse Holder and connect to Option Connector D (the middle connection on the left side) of the Fusebox.

Step 18. Add the 3A Fuse to the Fuse Holder, reconnect the Positive Battery terminal and test the windows.

Step 19. Replace the panels removed in Step 1.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rex
[B]Last week I emailled information to HondaGal to post in the S2KI.com FAQ section (http://s2ki.s2000online.com/faqs).

 

Holy schnikeys! Good Job REX! Just now remember this fact so if your keys get locked in the car you can get a slim jim or coat hanger and poke that button shazam! Window opens!(just dont let that cat out of the bag!!!!!

Theifs might start trying that first.

When I see pictures and what not.....I may just have do do that same thing myself! I always forget to put the windows up after I turn off the car or after I put the top up and turn the car off.

I still may put the window roll up feature on my car alarm!(roll down too!)

 

Rex,

I have the Honda Shop Manual (Ed 1 5/99) sold here in Oz but you obviously have access to a better source as my version doesn't have all connectors labeled or even described. You mention the C502 connector but that doesn't even rate a mention in my manual.

I am guessing that your instructions are to get both windows and soft top available without ignition and are therefore bypassing fuses F5, F8 and F12 which are ignition fed. But according to my reading of my diagrams this feeds the wipers and washers as well (no real issue but just trying to fully understand). Was the reason for intercepting the green / black at C502 to get the feed for F12 that comes out of the fusebox?

But my logic all fel to bits when you say to use a 3A fuse in the spare position and from your description it seems to be feeding the separate 30A fuse that is connected to the yellow at the soft top controller, and the green/black at C502.

The reasoning for my questions is to convert (if necessary) your mod to RHD. So far when I look at my manual info there are no diffferences between LHD and RHD so it should work but I am curious as your method seems complicated. The only variation I was going to add was to make it relay driven so that it was activated with the driver's door once ignition cut out.

My idea had been to use "brute force" and just have a 50A relay that was triggered off the driver's door switch that would bypass the ignition switch to fuses F5 and F8. My delay in doing this was that I hadn't got around to checking if this would cause other problems by feeding otrher ccts, and if yes how I was going to isolate the feeds to just the required ccts.

Could you post a verbal explanation so that I can firstly understand your mod and then convert to RHD as LHD photos often only provide so much info.

Thanks.

 

Col,

I have the Honda