S2000-specific Audio FAQ
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,657
Likes: 0
From: CA.WA.[TX].VA
Originally posted by ruexp67
What about Marks2002 S-Pods as an option.
What about Marks2002 S-Pods as an option.
Does no one but me like Sony HUs or MTX amps?
But I'll add them with a note...
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Originally posted by b0mbrman
I'm on it, I promise
I was just busy this weekend because, oddly enough, I was working on a car stereo install
I'm on it, I promise
I was just busy this weekend because, oddly enough, I was working on a car stereo install
thanks for just getting this this thread off the ground...
oh, and i was thinking we probably need to discuss on and off axis as well... i'll see if i can't put something together a bit later.
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,004
Likes: 0
From: Bowie
Great post bombrman!
One correction - The speaker serial and parallel equations are swapped.
Connecting Two Speakers in Series:
AMP(+)~~~(+)SPEAKER1(-)~~~(+)SPEAKER2(-)~~~(-)AMP
Increases impedance (OHMS): R1 + R2
For example Two 4 ohm speakers in series = 4+4 = 8 ohms
Connecting Two Speakers in Parallel
(+)~~~~(+)~~~~~(+)
AMP SPEAKER1 SPEAKER2
(-)~~~~(-)~~~~~(-)
Decreases Impedance (OHMS): (R1*R2)/(R1+R2) or for two identical speakers R/2
For example Two 4 ohm speakers in parallel (4*4)/(4+4) = 16/8 = 2 Ohms.
One correction - The speaker serial and parallel equations are swapped.
Connecting Two Speakers in Series:
AMP(+)~~~(+)SPEAKER1(-)~~~(+)SPEAKER2(-)~~~(-)AMP
Increases impedance (OHMS): R1 + R2
For example Two 4 ohm speakers in series = 4+4 = 8 ohms
Connecting Two Speakers in Parallel
(+)~~~~(+)~~~~~(+)
AMP SPEAKER1 SPEAKER2
(-)~~~~(-)~~~~~(-)
Decreases Impedance (OHMS): (R1*R2)/(R1+R2) or for two identical speakers R/2
For example Two 4 ohm speakers in parallel (4*4)/(4+4) = 16/8 = 2 Ohms.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,657
Likes: 0
From: CA.WA.[TX].VA
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 'smyroad
Great post bombrman!
One correction - The speaker serial and parallel equations are swapped.
Connecting Two Speakers in Series:
AMP(+)~~~(+)SPEAKER1(-)~~~(+)SPEAKER2(-)~~~(-)AMP
Increases impedance (OHMS):
Great post bombrman!
One correction - The speaker serial and parallel equations are swapped.
Connecting Two Speakers in Series:
AMP(+)~~~(+)SPEAKER1(-)~~~(+)SPEAKER2(-)~~~(-)AMP
Increases impedance (OHMS):
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
try this for the list of songs... remove the space before list and the space before /list
Code:
[ list][*]Natalie Merchant/Ophelia: My Skin [*] Metallica/Black Album: Enter Sandman [*] Tool/Aenima: Eulogy [*]Tori Amos/Little Earthquakes: Precious Things [*] Depeche Mode/Violator: Halo [*] Diana Krall/Dedication to the Nat King Cole Trio: Boulevard of Broken Dreams [*] Cake/Comfort Eagle: Long Line of Cars [*] Police/Syncronicity: Every Breath You Take [*] Beastie Boys/Hello Nasty: Intergalactic [*] and (my personal favorite, if you can find it) Adam Again/Homeboys: Save Me.[ /list]
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,657
Likes: 0
From: CA.WA.[TX].VA
Update: Added everyone else's notes and added an S2000-specific section.
If you already know a good amount about car audio and just have some S-specific questions, you can go here. And if you're going the shop route, maybe your installer could get some ideas from here.
An important note: there's a lot of mising information in the FAQ about topics I never really looked into--most importantly, max dimensions of speakers for Lucid type or S-pod rears and different small amps out there. If you could help to fill in gaps, that would be the coolest
If you already know a good amount about car audio and just have some S-specific questions, you can go here. And if you're going the shop route, maybe your installer could get some ideas from here.
An important note: there's a lot of mising information in the FAQ about topics I never really looked into--most importantly, max dimensions of speakers for Lucid type or S-pod rears and different small amps out there. If you could help to fill in gaps, that would be the coolest
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
b-man -- you forgot the [/LIST]on your listing for amp locations at the end.
also, don't forget -- you can mount an amp on top of the tools as well...
it's looking better and better man... i'm loving this FAQ. 
edit: here's a pretty common question -- how to add an aux to the factory head unit : http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...&threadid=89615
also, don't forget -- you can mount an amp on top of the tools as well...
it's looking better and better man... i'm loving this FAQ.
edit: here's a pretty common question -- how to add an aux to the factory head unit : http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...&threadid=89615
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 0
From: Mountian Ranch
b0mbrman,
Thanks for listing the S-Pods, here is some specific information.
They are drilled to accept either a 5.25" coaxial, or 5.25" mid and seperate tweeter. While deveolping them I was able to fit a 6.5 with some trimming, but this really isn't necessary. Plenty of volume is available from 5.25's. I HIGHLY reccommend components over coaxials if your budget will allow. Components offer much more clarity. The holes are drilled to 4.75".
*note: A customer of mine recently used MB quartz components. If you are planning to use high end speakers with dedicated mounting plates such as these, you must first send me the mounting plates so I can insure a perfect fit.
Mounting depth is not an issue with either coaxials, or components, 3.25" available.
Component tweeters are mounted with double stick tape through the mounting plate to the plastic roll bar cover. Holes for them are drilled to 2".
Coaxial tweeter protrusion is an issue. 1/8" past mounting surface will clear the speaker grill. 1/4" will touch the grill's foam backing if mounted from the front. 1/4" or more can be accomodated by mounting the speaker behind the mounting plate. This works fine but takes a lot of patience to start the mounting screws blind.
S-Pods are close to your majic $300 mark with coaxials. I started out this way with the stock HU. Later, Crystal components front and rear brought me to the $500-$550 range with greatly improved sound(if I had paid $240 for the S-Pods, the first set cost me closer to $1000 to develop). At that point the stock HU was definately the limiting factor, so I jumped in with both feet and added: HU, amp & sub.
Adding just S-Pods with nice components front and rear is a significant improvement over stock for about $500.
Thanks for listing the S-Pods, here is some specific information.
They are drilled to accept either a 5.25" coaxial, or 5.25" mid and seperate tweeter. While deveolping them I was able to fit a 6.5 with some trimming, but this really isn't necessary. Plenty of volume is available from 5.25's. I HIGHLY reccommend components over coaxials if your budget will allow. Components offer much more clarity. The holes are drilled to 4.75".
*note: A customer of mine recently used MB quartz components. If you are planning to use high end speakers with dedicated mounting plates such as these, you must first send me the mounting plates so I can insure a perfect fit.
Mounting depth is not an issue with either coaxials, or components, 3.25" available.
Component tweeters are mounted with double stick tape through the mounting plate to the plastic roll bar cover. Holes for them are drilled to 2".
Coaxial tweeter protrusion is an issue. 1/8" past mounting surface will clear the speaker grill. 1/4" will touch the grill's foam backing if mounted from the front. 1/4" or more can be accomodated by mounting the speaker behind the mounting plate. This works fine but takes a lot of patience to start the mounting screws blind.
S-Pods are close to your majic $300 mark with coaxials. I started out this way with the stock HU. Later, Crystal components front and rear brought me to the $500-$550 range with greatly improved sound(if I had paid $240 for the S-Pods, the first set cost me closer to $1000 to develop). At that point the stock HU was definately the limiting factor, so I jumped in with both feet and added: HU, amp & sub.
Adding just S-Pods with nice components front and rear is a significant improvement over stock for about $500.