Sound system questions... please help.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bloomington
Originally posted by Jshahan
As for the CDA-7893, it s the same as what I have so the 60x4 will help greatly to volume, as well as the sound quality of the stock speakers. If you want to keep the dash controls you will need the PAC SWI-X unit installed as well.
As for the CDA-7893, it s the same as what I have so the 60x4 will help greatly to volume, as well as the sound quality of the stock speakers. If you want to keep the dash controls you will need the PAC SWI-X unit installed as well.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Poconos
See www.lucidauto.com radio installation products for the SWIX for $59.50
Full Guides for both relay installations are up for the public use!
Full Guides for both relay installations are up for the public use!
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 166
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From: Orlando
Lucid says...
"Bass blockers cut off lower freq. to the speakers. YOU NEED to change the Door speaker wire NOW. Turn off your amp and do not use it until you get a heavier gauge wire in there. The current wire is 20 gauge too small to handle a 100RMS load. 16 Gauge would be fine."
What will happen if I don't replace the wire?
I called around to different installers in Orlando and could not find one that thought it would do any harm to leave the factory wire in. One installer, at Sound Advice, said I probably couldn't tell the difference and that there was even smaller wire in the coil of the speaker. I asked if I would hurt the speakers or overheat the amp and he said no. All were willing to do it for a price but all said it was not worthwhile or needed. I am confused because a good number of those here on this site are adamant about replacing the 20 gage "vapor" wire. Please explain your thoughts. What can I expect to happen if I don't, and what is the worse that can happen? Thanks.
I also asked....
"... if I just replaced the hu with an Alpine that is 60 x 4 that puts out at least 28rms wouldn't that clean up the rears too? (I would still run the fronts through the Blaupunkt 2100, and the Kenwood rears just from the new head unit.) This is how I envisioned my final setup. Wouldn't this be also a way to solve the problem with the "distorting" rears while leaving the fronts alone?" (I understand that the 7894 has a way to reduce the lows to just the rears.)
Thanks, again.
"Bass blockers cut off lower freq. to the speakers. YOU NEED to change the Door speaker wire NOW. Turn off your amp and do not use it until you get a heavier gauge wire in there. The current wire is 20 gauge too small to handle a 100RMS load. 16 Gauge would be fine."
What will happen if I don't replace the wire?
I called around to different installers in Orlando and could not find one that thought it would do any harm to leave the factory wire in. One installer, at Sound Advice, said I probably couldn't tell the difference and that there was even smaller wire in the coil of the speaker. I asked if I would hurt the speakers or overheat the amp and he said no. All were willing to do it for a price but all said it was not worthwhile or needed. I am confused because a good number of those here on this site are adamant about replacing the 20 gage "vapor" wire. Please explain your thoughts. What can I expect to happen if I don't, and what is the worse that can happen? Thanks.
I also asked....
"... if I just replaced the hu with an Alpine that is 60 x 4 that puts out at least 28rms wouldn't that clean up the rears too? (I would still run the fronts through the Blaupunkt 2100, and the Kenwood rears just from the new head unit.) This is how I envisioned my final setup. Wouldn't this be also a way to solve the problem with the "distorting" rears while leaving the fronts alone?" (I understand that the 7894 has a way to reduce the lows to just the rears.)
Thanks, again.
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