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rarely does anyone do this much, and not throw in some sort of sub by the end...
I'll drink to that.
It's been almost two years since I did my install. Fronts, HU, Amp, Spods.
My sub should be here tomorrow.
I am very happy with my system overall, and am VERY happy with the S-pods. However, at the end of the day there is little KICK to the system and it loses what little is there once I start moving with the top down.
Darien, you are lucky to ask before spending your hard earn $ in upgrading your car stereo. Most recommendations above are good, but there are somethings I like to add:
1. If you like to add S-pods, you can drive it with the power from the HU, either CDA9835 or CDA9855 will be able to power the S-pods, because you the main sound should come from the front speakers, the S-pods should be for rear fill only, and they are so close to your ears they do not need a lot of power, specially if the speakers in the S-pods are efficient (sensitivity of 93 dB or higher). As Dave said, you can add the S-pods latter if you are not satisfy without rear fill. Another option is adding low price rear speakers ($50 to $100 a pair) to the rear panels and drive it with power from the HU for rear fill.
2. All speakers recommended will sound very good at various power inputs, you do not need to turn on the volume level at one setting, i.e., at 80 Wrms or 100 Wrms, to be able to listen to music. Sensitivity of Focal 165K is 93 dB (with 1W input, it will produce sound pressure level of 93 dB at 1 meter), with 10W input it will produce 103 dB at 1 meter, which is very loud at city speed of 40MPH to 50MPH. At highway speed of 70MPH or more, you may want to turn up the volume to overcome ambience noise, the Focal 165K will produce 111 dB with 80W input and this is extremely loud. You should find a local stereo shop to listen to some speakers recommended above, only your ears can tell you the true sound, you may like one speaker better than others, and since it is your money you should buy what you like best.
3. You may want to buy an Amp with some reserved power, 20% to 50% more power than your speakers can handle. The reason is, the signal from your amp will be much cleaner at less than full power. Assume that there are 2 amps from the same company with similar specs, one is rated at 80 Wrms and the other at 120 Wrms, if you turn up the volume such that both will drive your speakers with 80 Wrms, the amp with 120 Wrms will have much less distortion than the amp with 80 Wrms.
4. Buy only high quality RCA cables, power and speaker wires from knukonceptz.com, do not try to save few pennies from buying lower quality cables and wires. You are going to spend big $ in upgrading your stereo, you do not like distortions from cheap cables and wires. It is very time consuming to debug if you have noise in your systems. Also, you will need DCI (Dash Control Interface) to be able to use the controls on your dash at the left of the steering wheel.
5. Sub is another decision for you to make. If you like to have full use of your trunk and want a sub, the S has so little cabin room such that only 6" sub is small enough for easy and cheap in-cabin installation. Most installed their 8" or 10" sub(s) in the trunk where the tool is located. Fews had been able to install their 8" subs in the passenger foot well with little lost space, using custom enclosure.
You should be able to finalize all parts of your system, then post it here again so that some of the audio fanatics here will review you equiments and give you final approval, before buying it. These audio experts will try to steer you to the right direction: best system for least $.
I'll ditto the sub before S-Pods. I've never waivered in my belief that the car should be changed in this order:
1) HU
2) Front speakers
3) Subwoofer
4) Rear speakers
This assumes an appropriate level of power and audio cabling at ever step. I have what I think is a superb sounding system with steps 1-3. Like losing the dash controls, you quickly get used to not having rear sound. If you want more fill you just turn up the volume a little and the sound reflects off your car's interior to create more fill. That said, S-Pods can be great. It's just that cars without rear speakers can also sound great.
For my money, it's better to get the core part of the system sounding its best before you add a tiny bit of rear fill. Systems without subwoofers, IMO, can never sound great. You simply lose too much of the spectrum that your ear can hear. To me, rear fill vs. hearing what is output by your CD and HU is an easy choice. Even if you don't want thump a subwoofer is required to hear all of your music.
Your amp choices now seem a lot better. With steps 1-3 I run a 125w x 2 amp for my fronts and a 350w x 2 amp for two 8" subs. If I did it again I would get exactly the same power output but would have looked for warmer amps for my fronts (maybe even a tube amp). If I ever add rear speakers I'll look for something like a 100w x 4 amp and pray that I can attenuate the rear speakers enough so they're not a nusiance.
Note: this is the opposite of what Phil wrote above. I like a subwoofer amp with a different design than my component amp. Usually, they are bigger in cubic volume with beefier heat sinks and occasionally have active cooling (fans, etc) that assume the amp is in the trunk (because they aren't always 100% silent). But, we also have different tastes in sound and music. I do enjoy a good back massage from my subs....
The Phoenix Gold Xenon X100.4. is probably your better bet. You can power your sub and your fronts with this beaut. You will not need an amp to power your rears if you get a V-drive HU. I've got the Alpine 9833, and even with a 600Ti powering the fronts, i still use the fader to bring my soundstage to the front. I've got Spods, i love 'em, but a sub should come first. It is far more important in overall Sound Quality. There are many ways to go about adding a sub to your system. The most common of which is putting a 10 in your trunk.
Take your spare out. get AAA or a can of fix a flat. changing a tire on the S2k is more trouble than its' worth anyway. you can put your amps in the spare well, and your sub in the tool well.
like this:
heed the advice of the EJ's. Your system will be both cost effective and amazing.
but seriously, i run a 4 channel amp that's bridged to 2 for my fronts, and a 2 channel amp bridged mono and dedicated to the sub. and my sub amp is actually an older well reknowned 'cheater' amp, which was designed more for sub duty than it ever was for 2 channel duty.
i was just trying to stick w/ the theme of a single amp to cover the bulk of his needs. honestly, if i can do it, i always like a dedicated sub amp. both the S and my Ody have amps for the highs, and a dedicated class AB sub amp.
and yet, if i plan to add Spods later (not really in my plans), i'd have to either add a 3rd amp, or take a hit in the power on my fronts to go back to 4 channel mode, or run them off the HU.
all in all though? if you CAN do it, and don't mind doing it... buy a dedicated amp for the fronts (maybe a 4 channel if you're 100% sold on S-pods), and then get an amp that has features and functions best setup for a sub's duties.
still, this setup will leave you with the fewest flexible options down the road.
Actually, thinking about it again I like Willie Gee's thought. I'd go Xenon 100x4, bridge the two rear channels to the sub(s), and then run deck power to the rears. Sorry, I never remember that other people's decks have power output. Mine is unpowered and it never even enters my mind...
You almost definitely won't need a beefy sub amp. If you didn't post the first time talking about how to put a 15" sub in the dash (an exaggeration ) then you should be fine with 200 watts to an 8" sub, or thereabouts.
) then you should be fine with 200 watts to an 8" sub, or thereabouts.
