...but blew a fuse.

I went by the instructions on his site, and was hoping I would be able to contact him there, but I could not. You can see the mod here : Flash to Pass

I went with mounting it off the Driver's side high beam. The following "diagram" shows how I attempted to do the mod as per Modifry's DIY.



After reading this :

"You can't run the remote negative power wire to ground, because the high beams have +12 volts if the low beams are on. Honda decided to complicate the wiring by switching positive with the low beam switch and negative with the high beam switch."

I believe that is where I may have "messed up".

So my question is this, should I have hooked up the REMOTE's POSITIVE to the RED/ BLUE (negative for high beam)?

I was going to switch the wires, being that it was a 50% chance of being correct, but did not want to run the risk of damaging anything else.

Common sense to me says I just need to switch the polarity, but I wanted to hear what the board says, and maybe Modifry will chime in.

Thanks for any help!



-Jason

 

I'm not sure why you are "grounding" your remote door opener. It is a self contained unit. You only need to ground your 9V battery adaptor. Your hot lead of the 9V adaptor clip is connected to the headlight hot lead. The clip's ground wire should just go to any chassis ground.
When you "flash" the highbeam, you send power to the clip, which then powers the door opener remote (which by the way, must be rigged to "transmit" all the time).
Step 2 in Modifry's instructions say to solder the switch contacts. This might be confusing depending upon the style of remote you have. When I did this on my last car, I just used a suitably sized nut to press down on the button and then wrapped it all in tape to keep it in place.
The remote in your diagram shows the + and - of the power clip, but then it shows another (-). This confuses me. Not sure what this is or why it's there. Neither Modifry's or your diagrams make complete sense to me.

ps. Find Modifry's username or one of his posts here and send him a PM. He's a busy guy and may not answer right away.
pps. I'm moving this to "Electronics".
Good luck!

 

Ooops sorry. That other "negative" is actually the light on the remote.

This is a 12V remote, and I soldered the jumper on there.

As far as connecting both + and - from the remote to the high beam wiring, that's per the instructions.

I just sent Modifry a PM in hopes that he can clear things up for me.



-Jason

 

This is just a thought and please feel free to ignore it.
Going to the highbeam circuit is complicated because it changes polarity (really goofy). If I were doing this, I'd find the power wire to one of the "park" lights - the ones that has the amber cover that people "clear". Then, you just have to rotate the headlight switch one click to activate the door opener. Not as convenient as "flashing" as that one springs back on its own but you wouldn't have to mess with polarity changes.

 

With that though, when you are driving at night, you are transmitting the remote all the time. And if you are just driving by the garage, it would open/ close when not needed.



-Jason

 

So true.
Just don't drive near your house at night.

 

 

The jumper that you soldered in -- does it jumper the pos and neg BATTERY terminals on the remote, or the remote SWITCH/BUTTON?

 

It the remote's button contacts you solder so that it's like you are holding the button down all the time. This way, when you apply power to the unit, it sends the signal.

 

True. My opener is wired as modifry describes with no problems. The diagram provided above looks like he jumpered the + and - battery terminals, though. That would blow the fuse for sure!