After reading about many different sub installs via searching, I have a dilemma regarding a cabin vs. trunk sub.

For those that have a sub mounted in the trunk, I was looking at WLaurent's V2 box with a 10w3. This looks like a great option, and the box is real nice and relatively out of the way (and it should allow for the spare to fit w/o moving the box it seems). However, I'm curious how loud it is. I'm quite familiar w/ audio systems, and am curious how the volume of the sub is with the top up and top down. With the top up, is it just like any old standard coupe, or is it less audible (I haven't looked at how much "stuff" there is behind the driver and the trunk which might quiet the sub)? Then the next question is, with the top down, is the trunk sub noticeably quieter (I imagine it would be with the top now in the way)?

The obvious "problem" with a trunk mounted sub is that it's less audible, and takes up trunk space. The big "problem" with a cabin sub like modifry's example is it's a big pita to install. I was thinking of something like a 10w0 for a cabin installed passenger footwell sub, or a 10w3 for the trunk. I was also considering going with an 8" sub for the passenger footwell, but it looks like the mounting depth of the sub is largely negligible (about 1") compared to a 10", and a 10" would probably provide much better bass. There's no way I'd consider hacking the frame rails like I saw some folks do, but I'd be fine cutting out a little thin sheet metal like modifry did.

I'm thinking a 10w0 would probably sound much louder and nicer mounted in cabin vs. a 10w3 in the trunk. Perhaps I just need to bite the bullet and deal with the more involved install of in cabin? Thoughts?

 

I have a WLaurent box with an Alpine SWS 10" powered by a JL250/1. It's very audible indeed.

I guess it depends on whether you want your sub to be a "true sub" i.e. operating below 80Hz or so (or even lower) or whether you want it to fill in mid-bass, somthing which is pretty common.

If you have the crossovers set too high, the bass becomes directional and appears to be coming from behind you, which is not good at all.

If the sub is cabin based, then you can get away with a higher crossover point.

The best solution is probably to have both, with the trunk sub dong the really low frequencies and acting like a seat massager, and the cabin sub going a bit higher to help the door mounted woofers out.

 

Thanks lovegroova. I usually set the low pass crossover on my amp to something around 120-150hz for the sub, and the high pass for the components to ~80hz. How is it with the top down though? I'm guessing it's still audible, but I'm concerned the majority of the sound is going to be heard by everyone outside of the car just as well as me..

 

The simple solution is to use the volume control, turn it down in town when you're going slower, and turn it up on the motorway.

Much depends on the quality of your components and their amplification. If they are good enough, you can lower the low pass filter point and let the sub work properly. If not, then you're going to have to compromise a bit.