vtec indicator
thanx modifry for clearing it up...
no wonder i had a hard time finding it.......
so i called radio shack and they do have it...its "1N4001 50volt 1amp" right??? i just dont want to get the wrong diodes and hook it up and have something blow up.....
by the way can that happen????
so i called radio shack and they do have it...its "1N4001 50volt 1amp" right??? i just dont want to get the wrong diodes and hook it up and have something blow up.....
by the way can that happen????
since were on this topic is anyone here running the DO-LUCK vtec indicator light if so is this unit a plug and play component or do you still need to splice the wires
id hate to splice my wires
even if it were done by PROFESSIONALS
id hate to splice my wires
even if it were done by PROFESSIONALS
Wires were meant to be spliced, they don't mind at all.
In order to make an indicator that does not require splicing you'd have to provide a harness that fit between the ECM and the factory harness, kind of like the "Frog" VAFC harnesses. That would increase the cost considerably and not worth it in my opinion.
The VTEC output on the ECM is a +12v signal, which is why it can operate the turn signal indicator without a relay or transistor. The diodes in my hook-up are there to keep the turn signal light from activating VTEC when you put on the turn signals.
If you want to live without the in-dash turn signal indicator then you can dispense with the diodes. Just cut the green/yellow wire for the dash indicator light, connect the dash light side to the ECM wire and insulate the other end. This will cause the right turn signal indicator to be a dedicated VTEC light and it will not light when the turn signals blink.
The AP2 dash LED for security uses a ground to activate it, so it can't be driven directly from the VTEC output on the ECM. You have to use either a relay or transistor to invert the signal. I can provide a diagram for the transistor invert later today, got a conference call right now.
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In order to make an indicator that does not require splicing you'd have to provide a harness that fit between the ECM and the factory harness, kind of like the "Frog" VAFC harnesses. That would increase the cost considerably and not worth it in my opinion.
The VTEC output on the ECM is a +12v signal, which is why it can operate the turn signal indicator without a relay or transistor. The diodes in my hook-up are there to keep the turn signal light from activating VTEC when you put on the turn signals.
If you want to live without the in-dash turn signal indicator then you can dispense with the diodes. Just cut the green/yellow wire for the dash indicator light, connect the dash light side to the ECM wire and insulate the other end. This will cause the right turn signal indicator to be a dedicated VTEC light and it will not light when the turn signals blink.
The AP2 dash LED for security uses a ground to activate it, so it can't be driven directly from the VTEC output on the ECM. You have to use either a relay or transistor to invert the signal. I can provide a diagram for the transistor invert later today, got a conference call right now.
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OK, here's a drawing. Think of the transistor like a relay where you apply voltage to the coil and the relay contacts connect together. On a transistor circuit like this one, you put current into the "base" and the transistor connects the "emitter" to the "collector". So when the VTEC output in ON, (has +12volts), this sends ~1ma of current into the base of the transistor, turning it ON, which allows current to flow between the emitter and collector. The ground coming out of the collector turns ON the dash Security LED.
You MUST install the resistor. Without it, an unlimited amount of current would flow into the base of the transistor and destroy it. In this application the value of the resistor is not terribly critical, anything between 1k and 50k will probably work.
You MUST install the resistor. Without it, an unlimited amount of current would flow into the base of the transistor and destroy it. In this application the value of the resistor is not terribly critical, anything between 1k and 50k will probably work.
Originally Posted by modifry,Jan 26 2006, 11:01 AM
Wires were meant to be spliced, they don't mind at all.
as for those diodes i bet i dont want to know what rat shack charges for them. they used to want a buck for a 5 pack of 100ohm resistors when i sold them for 1 cent and made a profit...
Originally Posted by spider2k,Jan 27 2006, 05:28 AM
as for those diodes i bet i dont want to know what rat shack charges for them. they used to want a buck for a 5 pack of 100ohm resistors when i sold them for 1 cent and made a profit...
im gonna hook up the vtec thingy as soon as i get home
by the way i bought those diodes(package of 2) for 59 cents









