[QUOTE]Originally posted by PJK3
[B]$350 for head unit and dash controls right?

edit:

and Mac is right -- did the installer set the gains?

 

*nods*

alright.... that dealer seemed to have good pricing. what brand head units did he stock? that's probably a good place to start...

we essentially have to find a head unit that will cost around $250 OTD, since modifry's DCI is roughly $100. also, it has to be compatible with Modifry's DCI and has to have IR in...

i think both of these are compatible with the DCI, and they're just 2 that popped up off the top of my head... there are probably other great recommendations out there as well...

this is a nice Alpine option - CDA-9807 for just under $240. it has 3 sets of pre-amp outs and supports MP3 playback.

this is a pretty nice Pioneer option - DEH-P6500 for right under $220. it also has 3 sets of pre-amp outs and but doesn't seem to support MP3 playback.

i don't have a whole lot of experience w/ infinite car audio, but i've read ok reports... they are a grey authorized distributor... some warranties, some not... see if your dealer can match/meet pricing.

 

I had to use a digital EQ to make my stock HU sound good. I also had MB quarts put in front for their high end sound, now I can counter act the lows of my 12" Orion H2 sub. 2 addional cabin speakers will help. I plan to replace the HU and my EQ once I can come up with enough money to buy one of these top of the line HU, it just saves alot of time and head aches, notice I didn't say money

 

Ajjra,

I'm not sure who advise you to go with your original setup as it would be completely underpowered and totally illogical. You are not supposed to bridge an amp for component speakers. You should only bridge a 2 channel amp if you are going to power a sub.

The Pionneer PJK3 recommended sounds like a good idea. You should check Ebay before purchasing one from a stereo shop. Just make sure you purchase it brand new from a reputable supplier.

 

My stereo guy stocks both Alpine and Eclipse.
Also, what size/brands should I go with for rear speakers? Is there any reason to go with the lucid option? I would like to use 6x9's but I'm not sure of 40watts is enough to push that...

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by speedfreakgc
[B]Ajjra,

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PJK3
[B]

he bridged a 4 channel amp for his compent speakers.

 

No one ever seems to offer a Sony option for the HU, but here is one that looks like it would work out well for you, and then the Lucid DCI is hardwired, and ADDS speed sensitive volume.

 

Bro...im sorry to say, but I strongly believe YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!!

First of all get a new HU. AND MAKE SURE IT HAS A LEAST 4V Preouts.....

Second.....get good wire/cable.....KNUKONCEPTZ.com has really cheap, good quality cabling and their shipping/service is great.

Finally, I dont care what anyone says....take that amp of yours and (if the shop sold it to you) shove it right up their a$$. I dont even want to know the model/brand of that amp. If it's 90watts RMS bridged, its complete garbage. Im sorry to be so brutally honest, but you shouve have known better. Your speakers can handle at least 100W RMS, and are getting briged 45. GET A NEW AMP!

I strongly advise you not buy it from a shop and get it online. A shop cannot offer you the same price as an online store due to the fact that they simply have way more overhead.

Again, dont listen to anything shops tell you...they get manufacturer incentives and will push whatever makes them the MOST money. Sorry for your bad news.....just out of curiosity....how much was the install?????

 

By the way....I have the Alpine 9807, and love it. I also have the lucid DCI and no complaints. It can be had for mid to low 200's