Yeah it 'should'

 

all good info so far...

i'd also just solder splice for the speaker wires if it were me. i generally wrap all my connections in 3M Super 33+ electrical tape.
[QUOTE]It combines PVC backing with excellent electrical insulating properties to provide primary electrical insulation for splices up to 600V and protective jacketing. UL Listed and CSA Certified. Excellent resistance to UV rays, abrasion, moisture, copper corrosion, alkalis and acids, and is flame-retardant. Excellent all-weather performance in cold to 0

 

One last question regarding this issue.

My amp requires an 80 amp fuse. I have the power wire fused up by the car's battery with an 80 amp fuse.

Now since i am goign to use the fuse box in the rear to extend the power cable, what size fuse would I use back there?

Do instead use a 60 up front and 20 out back, or just use the 80 up front, and a much higher rated fuse out back, since if there where any short, the front 80 would go first.

I have a feeling its going to be the second scenario, but I want to make sure before putting my brand new amp in jeopardy.

 

No you want the full fuse at the front for protection. The one in the back should never really pop before the one next to the battery. Keep the 80 up front and you should put another 80 in the back, or get a by-pass bar(its the same size as a fuse but its not a fuse )

 

Hey John,

Thanks for the info. By pass bar it will be for the rear. Two of them actually. One again thanks.

 

Yup you got it. You really don't need to fuse it again.

 

true, but i've always been of the mindset to over fuse (it doesn't really hurt...) and fuses are pretty darn cheap.

i'd be inclined to fuse 80 and 80.

 

Thats what I ended up doing, I could not find any By Pass Bars, and since the fuses where only 80 cents a piece, I got them.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Sweet!