Well, if something I wrote is confusing or seems contradictory, please ask me what I meant by it.

 

No thanks...

 

DK,

I assume you suggest running a new 10 Guage line rather than utilizing the wiring harness's power to power the HU. Would that be a correct statement? I've got the Apline CDA-9855 and i'm planning to do a full install including components, a custom fiberglass box with a false floor covering my Kappa Perfect 12DVQ sub. Both the speakers and the sub will be powered by seperate amps. I'll also be utilizing the internal amp of the HU to power my headrest tweeters that I got from the dealer. I don't know how well those tweeters will tie into the rest of the system but I think it will be just fine. I'm using your sticky as my main reference. I'll try to post pics but I'm still waiting for the dynamat and my PAC SWI-ALP before I tear into this project.

I visited one car audio place and they told me making a custom fiberglass box for my car would run about 2-3 days and they charged $95 dollars an hour roughly 16-24 hours of work. I called another place and they told me $1500 dollars parts and labor. I searched ebay trying to get a tool well enclosure but all were being sold with subs included. I would like to save time and trouble and I would buy a flush type fiberglass enclosure. I'm willing to drop a fair amount of money onto somebody who could do that but nowhere near $1500.

 

Yes if your using the HU power I would absolutly run a power wire to the HU from the battery. If you not using the HU power then you could most likely get away without it. But the manufacture says to do it... so why wouldn't ya. <- this is just a broad statement to those that think you don't have to. You don't have to put super gass in your car either but the manufacture says you should because its better for your car...

Anyway sorry about that Its just one of those things that bug me.

$1500 for a sub box!! wow that just nuts! What was it going to look like?

 

I just asked for a regular looking fiberglass box where I could put a false floor down and make everything look clean and stock. I couldn't believe it either when both places told me it was going to be $1500. I'm in the process now of getting an auto shop to give me a quote on getting this box built. I mean if I really wanted to dish out some money all I would do is buy a 10" enclosure with a sub off of ebay and widen the whole to fit my 12. Can't find 12" boxes anywhere. The 10" boxes with subs are running around at $400 dollars right now.

The power of the internet has failed me...

 

Yeah those shops must completely suck at fiberglass. I could make you a fiberglass box with a panel to go over it to cover it and hide it for WAY less than that

 

dang, i just threw my crossovers in the door... hope they dont get jacked up...anyways...for a 2 amp system, one for speakers, one for subs, is it easier to just mount both amps and capacitor and distribution block in the trunk, or to put the speaker amp under the passenger seat?

 

Just mount everything in the trunk. You may want to consider moving your x-overs into the trunk as well.

 

hey dark knight...for a 200w amp and a 1000-1500 watt amp...

1) what gauge of wire should i run from the battery to the trunk??

2) and is one wire to distribution block from battery good enough, then split it from there for the two amps??

3) is that going to drain the battery enough to call for a higher output alternator in addition to a capacitor?

 

Yes, or at least, you won't be getting full power out of the amps. What subs are you expecting to run w/ 1,500 watts???