[DT]

Howdy Folks!

I've been reading and trying to get a final determination of what I want to do with the audio in my S (it's a 2007). While I want a decent setup, I'm also a bit frugal with regards to car audio. I had a solid Eclipse/Xtant/MB Quart setup in my Supra, but I haven't done anything major in a couple of rides and a few years.

I listen to a wide range of music, but generally rock/alt-rock/classic-rock.

So far, I have a recently installed Alpine IDA-X100 (using the Modifry harness, but no DCI at this point). I'm seriously thinking about the PPI 356C S components (they sound like a steal at about $135 shipped).

There are a couple of vendors here on S2KI that make corner sub boxes that apparently sound pretty great and a have decent air volume. I'd run a single one those, designed around a 10" sub (I guess there's a depth limit of about 7", but most of the mid-range 10" subs aren't that deep).

For the price, the JL 10W0 seems like a decent sub, it gets great reviews, and can be found new for about $80 to my door.

The amp choices are confusing I want to mount it either in the other corner from the sub or tucked up in the spare tire area (though I definitely want to keep my spare). I know there's some consideration of how hot the amp runs if it's in an area with bad ventilation.

My original gut was to get an Alpine PDX 4.100, but I've seen some amps for about 1/2 the price that have gotten some good feedback on other sites.

Anybody have any experience with the DSC MB Quart series? Looking at the 480 (4 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan). Also MTX has some decent spec (and reviewed) amps in the same power range, same price, like the TC4004. Both of those amps are in the $125-135 range.

Speaking of, my plan is to run the PPIs off two channels and bridge the other two and drive the single 10".

I guess I wouldn't really need a cap for this setup, but just some interconnect and power lines.

I've read some of the posting about active setups, it's probably better, but I'm looking for "low effort" install (the PPIs sounds like they fit great in the S).

Much thanks in advance for any input, help, recommendations (especially for the amp and sub)!

[DT]

Committed to ordering the PPIs tonight or this weekend (I was waiting for a PP refund). Buying through Sonix via EBay (same price, but free shipping!).

Just need to figure out that amp solution!

ace123

everyone over at diymobileaudio.com swears by those ppis, just like everyone here. they sound like the best thing going for a passive setup right now, but i haven't heard much about running them active.

it sounds like you are planning to get one 4 channel amp only and bridge 2 channels --> run the sub and run the other 2 channels to the ppis in the front. that right? if you just want some more sound with considerably better than factory quality, your proposed system sounds like a great way to get it on the cheap.

i have one comment though:
how much do you care about noise? the xtants are very quiet amps--i used to have one.

the class D amps like the pdx are supposedly a little less clean than comparable A/B amps, but they're smaller form factor, use less juice , and a lot of owners really like them.

i can't comment on the cheaper quart and mtx amps you suggested--no experience. i used to have one of the kenwood excelon amps, i forget the model but it was an older class A/B they rated at 75Wx4 RMS. it provided plenty of volume, but the noise floor of the amp was high enough that i found it frustrating. hissing noise FTL... if the specs are good enough, you may be happy with them, but i hated hearing the hiss when i turned it up. that's where the higher end amps start to be appealing, and it's why they are often worth the extra money IMO.

[DT]

Yeah, their "DNA" seems good, especially considering the price. I'll 99.9% likely keep them passive (and use the supplied crossover, and just 2-channels from the AMP).



Yes! A 4-channel, with 2-channels running the front components (the PPI) and the other 2-channels bridged into a single channel to run a single 10" sub. Speaking of, what do you think about the JL 10W0? Seems like a solid performer for the price (and JL is reasonably well known for subs).

The Xtant I had in my Supra was very clean, though that was during a time when I was just tossing $$$ around, and I have no idea what they go for now.

I finally did a little research on the A/B vs. D, and it looks like most of my choices have been A/B, hopefully that won't be some massive power draw on my ride. I guess with just one, it won't be an issue.

The PDX is probably a simple, good solution, but spending a little less would be outstanding, unless there's a big performance, quality reduction.



Good info, I'll do some additional research. I had a line on an ED amp too, that was NIB, the NINE.4 and I thought based on their home products it would probably be excellent, but I couldn't find many people actually using it.


I really appreciate the feedback!

Agate

From everything I've heard, stay away from ED, and take a look at Sundown. The SAX-100.4D would fit what you're looking for almost perfectly, although I'm not sure how it would fit over the spare tire. Maybe over the gas tank filler tube on a homemade rack? Unfortunately the 50.4 won't quite power those PPIs, because it's a bit smaller.

ace123

I agree, the SAX-100.4D is about the right power level for the system goals, but they seem to run ~$300-$365. A lot more than the $100-$200 he's trying to stay around. I actually just purchased that very amp, and it should be arriving next week.

OP, A/B are also what you've been using in the past, so power draw will be less than before if anything since you're making less power. For a crude estimate of power consumption, check the amp fuses, but you can usually look that up for any given model. Not sure what the stock alternator puts out, but I'd be quite surprised if you had any trouble beyond dimming headlights with just a ~400WRMS A/B amp.

I haven't looked at subs in too long--my info is all 5+ years out of date. I've recently been researching HUs, component amps, and component sets. I've spent my budget on the amp, HU, and I have to pick speakers for Xmas, but subs will have to wait a while for me. DIYMA will have advice there from folks that are current if you don't find enough here.

But FWIW, I used to think the old W0's were great for low priced subs. That was almost 10 years ago though (wow!), and I was only ~18, so my tastes have changed a lot since then.

It sounds like you've never had low end amps in the past, so you might notice a difference if you step down. You would probably do well to somehow find some amps that are of a similar class / price range and play them loud to see if they sound good enough to you or if, like me, they annoy you. Of course for the money they're fine--you get what you're paying for. But I'd imagine if you find you don't care for their sound, you could save and spend a bit more, assuming you get a tangible improvement for your hard earned dough.

Of course, if you get the cheap amps on an eBay bid, you can probably unload them for pretty much what you paid, so maybe there's not enough risk to worry about!

[DT]

Good stuff guys I really appreciate it. Yeah, I'm being a little stingy with the audio is the S so keeping the amp under $200 would be outstanding (it's a "low use" car, like 2500 miles in the last year). Thanks for the power consumption estimates and whatnot.

I'll post some specs of the couple of amps I'm considering and maybe you guys more in the know could see if they're at all decent (though I understand there are some things about audio equipment that are beyond just the specifications).

Jumpman2k

I have always loved the sound of JL Audio's subs. Getting ready to install an 8W3v3 in a DarkSide box myself (as well as the PPI's).

The 10W0 should be good as well. Post pics of your install? I'm going to do so if I can remember.

Jumpman2k

If only I had realized that before placing my order...

[DT]

Oh yeah, I'm 100% going with you - we already exchanged a couple of PMs, I just need to pick my sub so I can get you the specs.

99% likely it will be a 10" on the passenger side (and probably a JL).