[DT]

I'm considering wiring up the crossovers "remote", right on the same rack as the amp. I figured this is good for a few reasons:

- No xover mounting issues in the door
- Access to x/o (they have some [minor] adjustment built in)
- Wiring in place if I decide to go active

Is there any issue with making a short run to the x/o, then a long run to the actual speaker? (vs. the "regular" method of a short lead from the x/o to the "local" speaker)

Neutered Sputniks

Nope, but again, I don't really see a benefit with adding those xovers. They're going to attenuate differently from your amp xovers, and you'll lose a fair amount of adjustability.

Plus, you're just adding one more component (well, two ) that can fail or cause problems.

YMMV

[DT]

I don't mind the failure point, I'll deal with that if and when it happens.

Right now, running active is a matter of a few things:

- Extra $$$ for a second amp
- Mounting a 2nd amp (since just one is proving to be a pain)
- I have zero idea about dialing in an active setup
- Extra power draw from a second amp
- Having to run heavier cable, more cable, dist block? (I assume)

All along my plan has been one, 4-channel amp, with 2 channels driving components and 2 bridged driving a sub.

*IF* I get past the stuff above, switching over to active is pretty simple isn't it? Especially if the tweeter/mid is already wired discreetly to the amp location?

Seems like there's no downside in starting with passive, except for potentially (in the context of my hearing) better SQ. Plus, I could probably sell off the crossover for a few bucks to offset the additional costs to go active.

I honestly think the passive setup is going to be such a major upgrade over stock (which right now is kind of crap-tacular), I'm going to be very happy with it, at least into the near future.

ace123

I agree with both of you.

Active is better for sound and performance. In every way.

Passive is cheaper--no second amp--so it will let you run a sub now.

There's really not much to getting things configured to run active, DT, so don't let that concern you. You simply set crossovers on the amp. And the new setup run passive will certainly put a grin on your face. But active will make that grin ever so much bigger.

But if you set it up passive with the crossovers right on the amp, you'll be able to switch to active with very little time and effort, so that's good for down the road. And a smaller amp (a class D) can go in the trunk over the gas tank. You can start on the current wiring just like you can start on a 4x100W amp for the whole system--it's better to give it the size it needs, but don't let that stop you from doing it the better way.

[DT]

Is there any advantage to mounting the tweeters or mids exposed, i.e., not behind the door panel (this is mainly applicable to the mids I guess...). I don't mind cutting the door panel.

I was also thinking the tweets on their little pods, that orient them more toward the seats?