booost02

Ok well I purchased a used 1012 the other day and am having trouble getting the car to fire and before I get my money back I thought I should ask here. The car is a 2004 with intake and exhaust at the moment and I'm using the supplied start-up cal from aempro. I am unfamiliar with the aem software as I typically use hondata.

So far I have updated the firmware in the ecu and updated my aempro
I uploaded the calibration to the car, scaled the tps then cycled the key. The fuel pump does prime But when I crank the car the stat sync does not go on. The laptop registers that the engine is turning at 75ish rpms so this makes me think the crank sensor is being picked up. I read somewhere that the cranking voltage should be above 11 volts or it will not sync, mine was showing 10 so I put the charger on it and set it to jump start and still no syncing. I also read that I should adjust the sensitivity of the sensors which I attempted but do not know if I did it properly.

I also read that there are 2 resistors that were changed in order to fix this issue, does anyone have any information on this? Which resistors in the box and what are the values that they should be?

I will be trying to box in a friends AP1 later on today so I will see how that goes. Sorry for the long somewhat unorganized thread just somewhat clueless at this point. Any suggestions or help are greatly appreciated.

wadzii

Since you see an rpm i would think the crank sensor circuit is fine.. you probably have a cam sensor issue.

Try logging cam tooth and spare speed.

The aem only uses one cam sensor, the one it normally uses may have a problem in that circuit.. but the other cam sensor is connected to the spare speed input.

If you dont see anything happening when you log cam tooth, look at the spare speed, if you see thing happening there then you can just switch the 2 by checking the box "cam=spare speed"

The timing will be way off if you have to use the other sensor, you will have to move the ignition phasing around and then use a timing light to set the timing. You will also need to move the injector phase the same number of teeth.

If you get a signal but it takes a while to sync then search the aem forums and you'll find the info on changing the resistor to allow that to pickup faster.

Also make sure you have more than 10.5v while cranking or the aem wont be happy with you. Those old boxes did not work well when the voltage dropped.

booost02

Thank you, Ill give all of that a try to the best of my ability. I did search for the resistor change and had trouble finding it.

booost02

Ok,I tried all of that and got no response from the cam sensors. The car runs fine on the factory ecu so there must be a problem with the ems. I even hooked my friends car up to mine with jumper cables and had his running while I cranked and it was still around 10.75 volts and dipped to 10.3ish a few times. Looks like Ill be calling aem tomorrow.

wadzii

I found the info for a 1052 box, but not a 1012..

search for how to convert a 1010 box to hall-effect cam/crank sensors, those are the same resistors you'd need to change.. add 1k to the value of whats there.

Also look for something cooked in there, if too much voltage comes in through those lines it will cook the resistors and possibly something else. It is very unusual for those to just not work at all.

booost02

Alright, will do. thanks. The previous owner swears the box worked fine when he took it out of his car and i believe him. Hes even willing to pay for any necessary repairs. If anything the box wil go to aem or ill call them and see if they will giver me the resistor values and locations required. and by 1k more you mean 1k more than what is in my box or 1k more than they reccomend for the 1010? thanks again.

wadzii

1k more than what you have in the 1012.