Coolant Temp gauge
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Coolant Temp gauge
Not sure if this engine management related or not, but I thought it fit best here.
I have a turbo AP1 with KPRO. I have had it for about 4 years now. Today, I came out of work and when I started it, the coolant gauge went to max as it always does then it slowly came down to 1 bar and then I began driving. Normally, the car gets up to 3 bars after about 2 miles of driving. Today, my temp gauge began fluctuating from full 6 bars to 0 bars almost to the minute, up and down. When I first saw it, I pulled over to check the temperature. Fans weren’t even on yet so it hadn’t passed 180* and the intake manifold was still cool to the touch. I thought maybe it was a failing ECT sensor.
I limped it Home and hooked Kmanager up. kmanager shows a rock solid 185-188 temperature through 20 minutes of idling, while my gauge is going berserk. Does this sound like a failing gauge cluster, maybe another issue?
The most recent thing I did to my car was change from NGK Iridium to NGK V-power Copper plugs, to trial a gap change. This was yesterday night and I only drove t to work this morning. I am changing plugs now to see if that caused a grounding issue.
I have a turbo AP1 with KPRO. I have had it for about 4 years now. Today, I came out of work and when I started it, the coolant gauge went to max as it always does then it slowly came down to 1 bar and then I began driving. Normally, the car gets up to 3 bars after about 2 miles of driving. Today, my temp gauge began fluctuating from full 6 bars to 0 bars almost to the minute, up and down. When I first saw it, I pulled over to check the temperature. Fans weren’t even on yet so it hadn’t passed 180* and the intake manifold was still cool to the touch. I thought maybe it was a failing ECT sensor.
I limped it Home and hooked Kmanager up. kmanager shows a rock solid 185-188 temperature through 20 minutes of idling, while my gauge is going berserk. Does this sound like a failing gauge cluster, maybe another issue?
The most recent thing I did to my car was change from NGK Iridium to NGK V-power Copper plugs, to trial a gap change. This was yesterday night and I only drove t to work this morning. I am changing plugs now to see if that caused a grounding issue.
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,151
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From: Sweden
Kpro for s2k has an additional circuit board that controls the temp gauge on the cluster, that's why it's doing the weird all bars lit in the beginning.
If your temp is stable in Kmanager the fault is either the cluster or the Hondata circuit board.
Not sure how you could proceed with further checks but I would try contacting Hondata first and see what they say.
Those plugs you are using is resistor style? Don't think they would be the cause then but it's easy to change so why not.
If your temp is stable in Kmanager the fault is either the cluster or the Hondata circuit board.
Not sure how you could proceed with further checks but I would try contacting Hondata first and see what they say.
Those plugs you are using is resistor style? Don't think they would be the cause then but it's easy to change so why not.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 316
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Both the Iridiums and Coppers are non resistor heat range 8s. I normally run iridiums but I was playing with gap settings, which is easier on copper so I was using them.
I switched back to iridiums and have put about 100 miles on with the issue having vanished. One of the copper plugs must have an issue with them or something. Very odd to only effect the temp gauge and nothing else.
I switched back to iridiums and have put about 100 miles on with the issue having vanished. One of the copper plugs must have an issue with them or something. Very odd to only effect the temp gauge and nothing else.
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