S2000 Engine Management Engine management topics, map and advice.

Cyl 4 running lean?

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Old May 24, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #21  
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You need to get a carb balancer and make sure each cylinder is flowing the same air at idle.

My psychic diagnosis is that your #4 throttle plate is open slightly more than the others. #4 is running lean and not firing consistently causing spitting back up the trumpet, and unburnt air/fuel to burn in the header.

If you have idle bleed screws, set them all the same, eg 3 turns from fully closed. Back off the interconnect screws between the cylinders so each cylinder is sitting on its idle stops. idle the motor and syncronise the air flow, then carefully, working from the master linkage, take all the slack our of the interconnect adjustments so all 4 plates crack open at the same time.

You can now use your air bleeds to fine tune the sync. If you adjust the idle, open or close the air bleeds 1/4 turn across the board.

Dont forget to keep track of your TPS during the adjustment. I normally make idle = 0 tps. Some other tuners back off the throttles till the plates are closed and set that as zero, then adjust to the idle position which becomes 1-2%. I prefer to set idle position =0 as its easier to reset the TPS 0 position later.

Good luck with it.

Chris.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #22  
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BTW, I use a SU carb balancing tool. you hold it over the trumpet and put your finger over a port. It has a plastic ball that gets sucked up a tube.

vacuum ones work well. Just be careful if its an old fashioned mercury one. A mate of mine was using one on a motorbike and gave it a rev. No more mercury after that ( was sucked into the motor)
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Old May 24, 2010 | 07:04 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by chris_barry,May 24 2010, 07:52 PM
You need to get a carb balancer and make sure each cylinder is flowing the same air at idle.

My psychic diagnosis is that your #4 throttle plate is open slightly more than the others. #4 is running lean and not firing consistently causing spitting back up the trumpet, and unburnt air/fuel to burn in the header.

If you have idle bleed screws, set them all the same, eg 3 turns from fully closed. Back off the interconnect screws between the cylinders so each cylinder is sitting on its idle stops. idle the motor and syncronise the air flow, then carefully, working from the master linkage, take all the slack our of the interconnect adjustments so all 4 plates crack open at the same time.

You can now use your air bleeds to fine tune the sync. If you adjust the idle, open or close the air bleeds 1/4 turn across the board.

Dont forget to keep track of your TPS during the adjustment. I normally make idle = 0 tps. Some other tuners back off the throttles till the plates are closed and set that as zero, then adjust to the idle position which becomes 1-2%. I prefer to set idle position =0 as its easier to reset the TPS 0 position later.

Good luck with it.

Chris.
I also need to scale my tps because I'm using the TPS that came with the jenvey system. I was going to have the tuner to that, since I know nothing about it. The only thing I did through kpro is change my injector CC from 330 to 440, since thats what mine are. My tuner is a pro with kpro and ITBs, but the only brand of itbs they know is kinsler, which come pre-synced from the factory. So I figured I have all of the hardware figured out before I tow my car to him.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 08:02 PM
  #24  
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A dirty way to sync the throttles is to use a piece of tube to listen down the trumpets.

There should be a similar pulsing noise from each throttle, and if you just crack the throttle a whisker they should make a similar clack/clack.

The one that opens too early will go quiet when you crack the throttle.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 12:07 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by chris_barry,May 24 2010, 07:52 PM
You need to get a carb balancer and make sure each cylinder is flowing the same air at idle.

My psychic diagnosis is that your #4 throttle plate is open slightly more than the others. #4 is running lean and not firing consistently causing spitting back up the trumpet, and unburnt air/fuel to burn in the header.

If you have idle bleed screws, set them all the same, eg 3 turns from fully closed. Back off the interconnect screws between the cylinders so each cylinder is sitting on its idle stops. idle the motor and syncronise the air flow, then carefully, working from the master linkage, take all the slack our of the interconnect adjustments so all 4 plates crack open at the same time.

You can now use your air bleeds to fine tune the sync. If you adjust the idle, open or close the air bleeds 1/4 turn across the board.

Dont forget to keep track of your TPS during the adjustment. I normally make idle = 0 tps. Some other tuners back off the throttles till the plates are closed and set that as zero, then adjust to the idle position which becomes 1-2%. I prefer to set idle position =0 as its easier to reset the TPS 0 position later.

Good luck with it.

Chris.
You are a psychic! Throttle was off, you definitely can't tell by looking at it. I'm getting it properly synced soon!
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Old May 25, 2010 | 06:06 PM
  #26  
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Wow, it was worth putting fresh batteries into my crystal ball.

Good luck with the tune.
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