Another call for help here... 06 with K&N FIPK, Invidia Q300 70mm dual exhaust, and I bolted on a Berk 70mm HFC a little bit ago. Right now the computer is stock but this Flashpro sitting next to me is begging me to let it flash the car

Would somebody with experience give me a clue as to which calibration I should use as a starting point? I am on the stock header for now and I don't see a calibration for an exhaust, HFC, intake combo.

Thanks,

 

The Mugen might be a good place to start, that or the Toda. None of the calibrations included with the FP will be "just right" with your mods. Probably best to try both and log them. When you log, if you start logging at car start-up.....make sure when you are reviewing your logs that your not making changes based on the first 15 - 20 minutes of log time. Until the car gets fully warmed up, the STFTs will be more erratic.

Also, when looking at the logs....pay attention to the AF Corr value. It's closer to the readings I'm getting from my wideband.

Try a couple different ones....drive each of them for a day or two. Log them, and see which looks and feels best.

There are also e-tuners out there, and can refer a good one if you need some help at that point.....just shoot a PM.

Hope this helps....

Red

 

Thanks for the response. I am committed to figuring this out on my own. I have been doing a lot of reading and thanks to gernby's posts i figured out to change the target AF ratio and manifold pressure level for high load under the options menu so now the flashpro suggested changes make sense. I flashed it with the toda cal. Its a very noticable improvement but there is a lean spike at 6500 and a rich dip around 5500. My plan is three steps..
1 try to get a nice flat afr at 12.5 by changing just the fuel table
2 flatten the WOT Lambda table at 12.5 (removing the drop to 11.76) and retune the fuel table until actual AFR is 12.5
3 Carefully bring WOT lambda table toward 13.0 and monitor afr with hopes it will now track with the WOT table

Since I have a wideband sitting on the counter I will probably install it to verify to stock sensor readings.

Anybody feel free to chime in of this sounds like the wrong approach

 

The Mugen calibration doesn't look like a good calibration at all for people that don't have almost exactly the setup that it was created for. It has MUCH sharper / larger transitions in fuel that go higher AND lower than the Toda calibration, which is a much more generic tune. I've always believed that the Toda calibration is really a generic "Test Pipe" calibration with a more politically correct name. I believe that the Mugen calibration was actually done with the stock catalytic converter, since there is such a deep dip in fuel in the 5K range and VTEC engagement is set at 5400 RPMs.

 

Listen to Gernby, he knows what he's talking about. Without a HFC or test pipe, you'll lose power (I lost 5HP) with the Mugen, tuned, and Toda calibrations. I verified this on a dyno with a Skunk2 exhaust, FIPK, and STOCK CAT. After I threw on a test pipe (same everything else), I still lost power with the Mugen and tuned maps. However, I made 5HP with the stock and Toda map. The difference with the Toda map is that the AFR's are a lot better and you can lower VTEC down to about 3,700RPM for a smooth power curve all through redline (no more jump at 5,200RPM).

In summary, get a HFC or test pipe and start with the Toda map. The stock cat doesn't allow you to do very much tuning at all.

 

I know this is an old thread, but just thought I'd say thank you (ironic that it's on Thanksgiving lol) to all of the input on this thread and mention the benefits I've noticed:

I have an MY08 with an Invidia N1 exhaust with a test pipe and used the Toda map per the recommendation in previous comments...HOLY HELL. Drives like a totally different car now. It doesn't jerk as much in between shifts. It got rid of that "turbo lag" feel that I felt around 2-3k rpm's and definitely gets up to the 4300 rpm VTEC activation a lot quicker. Also, anyone who has the N1 with a test pipe knows how annoying the drone sound is and it seems to have made it sound a lot smoother as well. I bought the car in CA and live in AZ so regardless, a professional tune will be done in the near future. Hope my input helps someone in using not only the right MAP, but perhaps helps someone in deciding if getting the FlashPro is worth it. Definitely worth every penny. Cheers!

 

Careful using the toda map. There's audible pinging at low rpm high loads due to the ignition limit tables. Search on hondata forum for more info. And it seems the new updated software didn't fix those tables either. I started with the stock tuned map and imported toda ignition high anf low tables and made adjustments from there.

 

Spend the $100 and have Greg tune your car. No worries about running too lean or rich and his tune will be for your car with your intake and exhaust, etc, and not a hypothetical.

VTEC is now at 3,600rpm and it gets to 8400rpm so fast I bought a rev alarm!

-- Chuck