Originally Posted by wadzii

yep, read the aem pro instructions.. they explain it very well.

i would recomend NOT adding fuel, only removing timing. If you arent careful you'll melt a piston w/the knock control

Originally Posted by wadzii

yep, read the aem pro instructions.. they explain it very well.

i would recomend NOT adding fuel, only removing timing. If you arent careful you'll melt a piston w/the knock control

Originally Posted by RealStreet

I would set it up with the following steps.
1. Using the internal logging log the following, engine speed/engine load/O2/IAT/ECT/knock raw/knock volts/knock tooth/knock fuel and knock retard. It's important that you're logging the knock channels on the fast channels( with the rate on 250 samples per second). It's worth noting that trying to do this with PC logging isn't going to work. I set the loggers up to "loop log" so whenever the engine is under load it's logging. This way the next time I see the car I can go in and suck out all the logs from all the times the engine has been beat on.
2. Develop a baseline of "noise" the knock sensor makes NA. You're lucky enough to have most of the work done for you, the sensor is "tuned" to the frequency of "noise" the F20c/F22c makes so you don't have to do any of that setup. If your car is already boosted and you need a baseline you may use a higher octane fuel to base off of as tuning errors will be covered up with octane.
3. When you upload the log to analyze the data you are going to compare your baseline knock volts to your boosted/nitrous knock volts. If you have a spike in knock volts that wasn't present in your baseline you can consider this to be a problem.
The parameters that your logging are pretty self defined. If you're working with a engine that has poor distribution and one/two cylinders are showing more issue than others this If the knock retard shows events that require more than 3-4 degrees to get under control it's safe to say your tune is too hot. You will be watching "knock tooth" to tie knock events to it's corresponding cylinder. If this is the case you can use the individual timing trims to remove lead from troubled holes.

This is all assuming you have a decent handle on your fuel curve and you're not making big changes in your timing map. I guess in short, the knock control is a great feature it just requires time to set and and tune.
If you have any specific questions I'll do my best to answer them.