Having done an engine swap I am confident I can handle the KPro install. My only concern is what special tools do I need to make sure to have on hand for removing the gears.

I have read that the CAM gear is held on with a reverse thread and a HIGH QUALITY hex head tool is necessary. Wonder how much that SnapOn part is going to cost me. The question is getting those off both the cam and the crank do you need a special puller tool to get it off or do they slide off with minimal fuss?

Other than that I think some heat shrink tubing for the wires and some Honda Bond for the oil pan is all I will need.

 

You need an 8mm hex socket. Mine had to be cut so that it could fit between the firewall and the cam gear. The hex socket was from harbor freight. See pics here:

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/945...hl__forcedbird

Post # 18

You do need the crank pulley tool. Don't bother trying to use an impact wrench to get the crank pulley off, ask me how I know. Make sure that your car is on the ground and not on jackstands (for added safety before breaking the bolt loose). Just use a breaker bar w/ pipe if needed. Once the bolts were out (for both crank pulley and cam and crank triggers wheels) they just slid off with out a puller.

I also used a torque wrench to torque down the crank pulley bolt and the oil pan bolts.

HTH

 

Forcedbird thanks!

I was thinking I might need to chop down the socket! Just need to make sure the cut is clean. I think I even have an 8MM 3/8 socket. I heard from a reputable installer that you don't need HIGH QUALITY bits but you need it SHORT to make sure it goes in straight and doesn't twist as you torque it.


Does anyone have a STOCK S2000 basemap file for Hondata? Or better yet one with a Test Pipe installed? I have an AP1 2002 engine installed but I can't trust the map that is on the ECU as it stands.

Thanks.

 

There should be a stock AP1 calibration included with the K-Pro software

 

^^Correct!

Open Kmanager--->new calibration--->under vehicle type there is a drop down box(click: S2000 (2000-2003, AP1) - PRA)---->click the only calibration that is there---->
then upload it.

Remember, this is a base map for stock injectors only!!!!

I used a dremel to cut the hex socket and made it as straight as possible by hand. Don't forget to hold the camshaft with a wrench while breaking the cam gear loose.

 

I used Raychem 3:1 shrink tube for the wires. I also depinned the wires from the plug, ran it through the firewall, then re-pinned them. All the other advice is pretty consistent...long breaker bar for that pulley! If you've done an engine swap then I'm sure you value a torque wrench - def use it and follow the torque pattern for the oil pan.

 

This article has a few pictures of the install:
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...ter-power.aspx

 

Cool thanks! Yeah I have a stereo shop that I can hit up I think for the shrink tubing. I have seen a lot of people depin which is easy enough to do........just gotta make sure it all goes back to the same place!

Yes have torque wrench along with breaker bar(3/4") and the arm from my jack stand pops off so I am sure I can get leverage with that!

Forcebird: Thanks for the tips and info! That makes me feel so much better knowing I can install and don't have to worry about a stock basemap. I do have OEM injectors right now. All I have is TB & Bored TB as far as engine mods. So it's not far off from OEM. Supercharger will come in years to follow.

 

just an FYI no matter what anyone says, you CAN use an impact to get the crank pulley off, i just did it yet again a week ago. I'm a honda master tech just to give my proof of experience i guess, but using the matco composite gun which is the ingersoll rand titanium and like a 6 inch extension i think it was i used, you put the gun on the side of the crossmember closest to the radiator and yes, it does work.

 

Be careful with torquing the crank pulley when you put it back on. I've had one almost fall off before. That's not a good thing...

Tim