did a few test with the gtech tonight and compare it to my previous runs. I'm losing some time in the lower 2 gears due to the clutch slip but gaining on the top end. So the flashpro is definitely making some power than before.

I think if I get a clutch that can grab, I can shave a half sec off my time at least.

Test Pipe (60 mph to 80 mph) = 3.403 sec
Hondata flash pro with injen intake and test pipe ( 60 - 80) = 2.843

so thats a difference of .56 second.

Same with 50-70 runs, diff of .5 sec.

The overall data for the 1/4 shows this:

For the Test Pipe only run:

60 foot = 2.174
330 = 5.887
1/8 = 8.970 at 81.03 mph
1000 foot = 11.626
1/4 mile = 13.851 at 101.28 mph

here is a video that I did back then there was barely any clutch slip. So very nice and crisp. Oh I wish it was like that today. hehe
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eL6YofV5Qm4 [/media]


Here is the data for the Hondata Flashpro with injen intake and test pipe. I didn't use the launch control on this run. I forgot to make the changes. The launch compare to the video above was bad. It was spinning. If I launch like I did in the video and have the 60 foot, It would have been a great run. I only was able to do 2 back to back run before I book it home. This was done in country side with no houses around except farms. Here it is:

60 foot = 2.268
330 = 6.001
1/8 = 9.025 at 82.25 mph
1000 foot = 11.326
1/4 mile = 13.791 at 103.02 mph

As you can see, I lost a lot of time on the launch and slipping clutch on the lower gear. However made up for it on the top end resulting in a faster time and evening it out. So if I didn't have a slipping clutch, it would be quicker. This also shows me that I'm making power to make up for the lost time.

anyways, this is fun stuff but tires aren't too happy haha

 

the vid was just uploaded so if you play it and get an error, it is still processing. Try it again later

 

Time to start saving for that new diff you always wanted.

 

have you had a bad experience with your diff or what

i understand the s2k diff are weak especially on ap1 car. The ap2 diff is a bit stronger than ap1 diff. My old ap1 diff lasted a long time even with many launches. I don't go out and do a 9k dump which is foolish. As long as the tires are spinning and not hooking hard, the diff is fine

thanks for your input though. If the time comes for a new diff then it comes. No worries

 

The AP2 diff may be stronger than the AP1 diff, but the AP2 flywheel is much heavier than the AP1 flywheel. The heavier flywheel combined with a CDV delete probably makes the AP2 diff more likely to fail than the AP1 diff.

 

how is it the diff likely to fail by a heavier flywheel when the pressure plate isn't even grabbing? I can understand if you have a heavy duty clutch in there that grabs which would shock the diff.

In the case of the stock heavier flywheel with a weak pressure plate, all the force is absorb through the pressure plate. Whatever energy is after the pressure plate that gets to the diff is minimal.

On the other hand if you have a clutch that grabs and doesn't slip like a 3 puck clutch then the diff would receive the majority of the energy which in result in a more severe shock to the diff.

 

How were your times before you installed the testpipe?

 

with the car completely stock, it has done consistent low 14s. Even a few 13.9s in there with a great launch and shifting. But it has to be precise.

 

It's been a while since I read anything about what was causing the diff failures, but I believe there were 2 things. The bearing caps would fail on hard launches if you did a hard launch with a hard clutch dump with sticky tires, or the teeth of the pinion gear could fail from driveline shock. I don't think you need a good clutch to deliver massive amounts of driveline shock.

 

^The most dramatic change seems to be the 60-80 run. Is the testpipe 63mm or 70mm? Did you do a 60-80 run totally stock?