As I take a deep breath realizing I will def be getting yelled at for not researching here I ask this question because... A. With all the reading I've done in the past, still several opinions remained and the options were still 2-3... and B. My research was 6 months ago and maybe there is a better option now?

So... Hopefully with just a few quick responses, myself and others in the same boat will have the "answer" at their finger tips

Current Mods; K&N FIPK, PLM Header (soon to come), Test Pipe, Buddy Club Pro Spec Dual exhaust... Higher temp Radiator Cap.

Basically I want to lower Vtec, adjust timing, a/f ratio, and avoid any knocking... Simply free things up a bit, taking advantage of the bolt-ons without sacrificing reliability, etc. I don't like how Vtec hits hard, for I prefer a smooth transition of power, and predictability through corners, etc.

Cost is a major factor... Initial and ongoing.
Reliability is Huge.
WHP gain the obvious goal.

I look forward to your responses

 

there should be a sticky...

Full standalones (best gains):

You're cheapest option is going to be a used AEM v1 (~$700+), plus tuning. If you have emissions concerns, you just switch back to your stock ECU (easy since you are N/A) come inspection time.

Next up is the Haltech route. Cost will be $1000+. Then pay for tuning. You don't have to worry come emissions time.

Or AEM v2. $1200+. Then pay for tuning. Switch back to stock ECU if you have emissions, for your inspection.

Then there is KPro. Cost will be $1500+. Then pay for tuning. You don't have to worry come emissions time.


As far as piggybacks, which you won't get as much gains/will need to find an awesome tuner:

VAFC (all models will give you same gains, $175-$300, plus tuning), greddy e-manage (good luck on finding a tuner, ~$400+, plus tuning).

There should be no ongoing cost in any of these, if there is, you are doing it wrong.

Now that you know what is available for your year, you can research each option in further detail. Piggybacks should be quite a bit cheaper to tune than full standalones, or you can get a wideband and read up and do it yourself.

 

Thank you! I will do just that. I think before, I was leaning VAFC... Sounds like it again. If I can take some advantage of my bolt ons, lower Vtec, and remain reliable for $300... I'm in...

Thanks again

 

Your best bet is to talk to the person tuning the car.

 

Yea hard to beat the buy in cost of a vafc, not a ton of stuff you can do with it, so it may be worthwhile to pick up a wideband o2 and "tune" it yourself if you go that route

 

So with VAFC and a Wideband o2, I could set the Vtec point, and adjust a/f ratios and timing? Would this require a bunch of dyno time?

 

You could lower vtec and tune afr, and then hit the dyno with vtec set really low and vtec set really high and overlay graphs. Look for a thread by gernby on vafc tuning.

 

I'm debating between AEM EMS and emanage ultimate. For an NA tune i'm wondering if EMS is necessary. I should be able to find a good emanage tuner near me, Church does it and i've heard Autowave does too. I'm thinking i'd get about the same NA gains with emanagr vs ems if both are tuned well.