Make sure when you do that you pay attention to the rpm values. They are not the same. You can edit the rpm values so they are the same

 

Just it's working doesn't mean it's ok. My ECU JUST TOOK A DUMP.

Had the PC connected at the time... not blown fuse, just burnt smell... and TPS/ECT/Sec02 sesnors went overvoltage. Shut the car off immedately (was still running)

Worked perfectly for two weeks... too pissed right now to write comments...

Yes, the wideband was still functioning when it died-no codes for it at all.

 

Wow, sorry to hear. I'd like to know if you re-checked your wiring after the burnt? Now, you got me nervous. So the only guy that has this running for a long time and no problem is JustinC?

I did triple check my wiring. Been running this way on my Tsx race car for 2 years now. I'm going to check it again

 

Kinda dousche on the end of Hondata to not offer this to us as a supported option, those of us who have the cash for Kpro could care less about the extra price to have the wideband option on it.

The reason they are so secretive about everything is they probably dont know what the hell they are doing either, im sure they dont offer this mod because they have no effing clue to how do it properly either and then dont want the extra work of all the units people would PAY to have revised. $600 extra to make this work, hell id shell that out no questions asked.

Im starting to think abunch of sociopaths work at hondata and hide in a dark room all day...

I remember one friends Kpro was acting oddly and they refused to tell us what the blinking lights meant that it was producing, seriously?!

If money doesnt motivate hondata, what would??? Im very confident that I could get a pre order list long enough to pay for this mod to become supported.

 

Thanks for the sympathy... My motto is: This sucks, I'm too old for this!

Ok, after I kicked the dog and punched the wife (figuratively , of course), I checked ALL of the wiring, the relay, etc. EVERYTHING was perfect. Below is a more simple sketch of the wiring. This is EXACTLY how mine is wired!

Reflecting back on it, I think it happened when the car is already 'warm'... and if the ECU turns on the heater anyway, there is no load from the heater. All of the current goes to ground via the ECU. I'm saying this b/c the D8 pin connection on the adapter board is burnt- it's the only thing on the D-plug area that is damaged. I had one other time when I started the car after driving it for a while when I though I smelled someing 'funny', but then it stopped. Nothing in the datalogs to inidcate there was a problem (no codes or sesnors acting funny).

If you have this mod, I would consider grounding the D8 (O2 heater ground) pin to the body rather than the ECU- see if it throws a code- I doubt it will. That way, if something does happen to the sensor, or the realy is on when the sensor is already hot, it won't ground out through the ECU.

PLX here I come... well, at least it gives me time to replace the brakes...

 

So it HAS to be re-tuned, no way to convert to a PRB without this? Datalogging/getting changes is not an option, as the tuner does not even respond to my complaints of car activating fuel cut, barely cold-starting, etc. If a re-tune is necessary, I will wait and do this when I find a competent tuner who will likely start over anyway.

Given hybridsol's post, I will be disconnecting it for now. And I will be doing it before I so much as turn the key, especially since it is useless currently. I would really like to have this safely installed and working in the end though.

 

Where does an AEM or other aftermarket wideband hook into the KPro? "ELD" input comes up a lot in threads.

 

ELD should be hooked in to pin a30 per kpro help documentation

 

Ok, mine stopped working and I yanked it out. Same, the track was burned and I lost continuity from A1 to D8. From reliable sources, I was told the adapter board doesn't have a good enough track to support that much current going through. You probably ok building a jumper between A1 to D8 with beefier wire, which is my next step. Cause I verified it with my race car K series running kpro and I run same exact wiring and been running fine.

 

Deff think this is the issue. Using my busted-ass ECU, I hooked an multi-meter between the ground return and body ground with the car running- meaured 5.1 Amps! The amperage decreased a little as the car warmed up down to about 4.7A. That's a lot of current for that little circut board to take...

Reading the Helms manual, it sems the ECU ALWAYS pulls in the relay with ingition ON, but uses the D8 gound to switch the heater on and off... maybe adding another realy to this (instead of the o2 gound->D8 use D8->2nd Realy control with return gound thru relay to body gound) would work?