it sounded like Justin was saying that shadows was revision 7

 

i guess i wont be doing this, if anyone needs a BNIB rsx wideband, PM me, $120 +shipping/paypal

 

I'll take it off of your hands. Hit me up

 

ok, it's yours

 

I'm a little, ok, a lot conffused about this install...

1. Why do you need to re-wire the whole sensor plug? It seems to me it would be easire to re-pin the wires at the ECU- especially since the O2 sensor wiring is SUPPOSED to be shielded? It looks like all it needs is an exteral relay/switched power with feedback signal.

2. Why even use a relay/control to BATT source and not use just IG2? This seems odd. Does the heater shut off after the car is running for a while? The fact most people here are wiring this heater directly to a BATT source without a fuse is very shaky... what current draw is the heater?

3. The stock O2 sensor heaters share a 15A source DIRECTLY from the driver's side fuse box. Can't this source be wired diectly to the O2 heater or used instead?

Sorry for the rambling, but looking at the wiring required, it just does not make sense that there's a 6-wire control for a 4-wire sensor. I don't have a RSX Helms manual to look it up...

I REALLY wish Hondata would give us a little 'unsupported' suport explaining how this circut works and what's required (as in a 30A relay in this circut has got to be overkill... what about a resistor across the coil? Is one recommended? etc.). Maybe that would stop some 'errors' in installation. I would much rather add a relay at the ECU and connect two wires that re-run a new O2 cable through the firewall over to the exhaust...

Thanks.

 

Ok, after pouring over the RSX Helms manual like a Dead Sea Scroll, and after reading my bitchy post above, there are two points worth mentioning if anyone is still with us here...

1) The O2 sensor heater is fed directly from the battery via a 20A fuse. This must be important, b/c Honda typically would never wire a sensor directly to the battery- I'm talking its own fuse and everything! Take-away: You need full battery voltage to power the heater. You need 18ga wire or better to power it.

2) The relay shuts off power to the heater once the engine is "warmed up". Take-away: Better check to be sure your relay drops out- otherwise the heater will be on all the time and burn out=shorted heater circut=crispy ECU. I would personally suggest putting a dropping resistor across the coil of the relay. Sometimes those cheap cube relays stay energized when powered via a solid state output (i.e. ECU).

Other than that, yes, it is wired exactly like it's shown in the drawing a few pages back...

Other notes of interest:
The ECU checks for proper/minimum voltage driving the heater
Manual has Trouble: PHO2S "stuck lean"- the solution is to check if the wire is slack- if not, then the remedy is to re-install the sensor (?)
The RSX PHO2S sensor wires are NOT shielded cable
The sensor heater power (relay contact) 20A fuse is wired directly to the 100A main fuse off the battery- and is the ONLY circut off of that fuse.
The S2000 narrow band heater is "duty controlled" according to Helms, and is powered by 15A fuse from IG1 (Hot on acc/on)- not close by a longshot

Hope this was helpful to someone...
Thanks.

 

So what I take from this is, use a 20A fuse to the battery source and make sure that the relay we are using is a quality relay. Do you have a diagram of how I would use a resistor coil for my relay and pictures of the resistor coil. I wired this in myself using the diagram on the first page and I want to redo it according to your suggestions. Your input is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

HONDATA should just leave the feature wired in and offer an RSX wideband/cable kit for around $300 and call it a day. If you do your own work-around and bake the KPRO it is on you.

Not supporting and claiming that they do not support it because there are less expensive options is BS.

Hondata - you already charge $1800 for an S2000 KPRO (which I run and love vs. other options), nobody will cry if you offer a $300 wideband option.

 

What I'm refering to is called "coil supression". Most sources recommend using a diode or zener diode, but a resistor will work too, and is usually easier to get the right size... basically, you put a resistor of greater or equal value than the coil across the coi (85 and 86)- the trick is to get the correct wattage- and remember the resistor will always be drawing some current if the control switch is closed. At 12VDC, 1k Ohm will use about 0.15 Watts, 500 Ohm = 0.288 Watts

Some backup info:
http://www.accessconnect.com/car_relays.htm
http://relays.tycoelectronics.com/ap...fs/13c3311.pdf

And a great site for wiring issues in general:

The 12 Volt

 

AMEN!