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2 final questions for SOS build

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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 02:25 PM
  #11  
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Where is the least expensive place to purchase? Any vendors on here?
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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In my rather extensive experience in this arena starting at the clutch, the SOS sport clutch is really underrated, it holds my Novi 1200 at max boost/18psi/3.2" pulley. Haven't dynoed it but it has to be pushing 300trq.

Part of the clutches ability to hold power comes from less rotating mass from the flywheel. Imagine a motorcycle wheel spinning and grabbing with your hand to stop it vs a bicycle wheel, same principals apply with a pressure plate forcing a disk down on to a 22lb flywheels vs an 8lb ( with the inertia of all moving parts in the motor) Lighter is better.

ive run the stock 14lb flywheel, an 8lb aluminum Findanza flywheel and now am on a Act pro light 8.3lb chromoly flywheel. The Act pro light is by far one of the best options and one I highly recommend with the SOS sport clutch to get the best feel and hold what any high boost sc set up will put out with the best weight and quality of the flywheel.

To note about the SOS clutch, the friction disc they use is a little bit on the grabby side and can chatter at times as a result, after wearing through the disc I opted to try the OEM disc with their pp and its a solid winner! With the stock pedal pressure of the SOS pp then coupled with the OEM disc, it feel exactly like stock, but you get all the increased holding needed, couldnt ask more from a clutch for this car.

*With the 1200 blower, a 3.8-3.6 will get you 400whp no problem.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 03:43 PM
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Damnit, so many options!

Can the SOS PP be purchased without the friction disc?
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by macdaddies911
Damnit, so many options!

Can the SOS PP be purchased without the friction disc?
Unfortunately not, you have to use up their friction disc first and then swap in the OEM later.

***Chris@SOS should offer the OEM disc along with the sport pp if they don't want to seperate at least. The OEM disc is smoother and last longer as a result I found. 95% of the clutches holding ability comes from the pp so running a grabby/chattery disc just isn't worth it, nor needed.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 04:32 PM
  #15  
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Regardless of pressure plate does everyone generally agree that the OEM disc is best suited? Will it affect holding power?

The CC stage 4 looks to come with a 6 puck, don't think I want that.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 05:20 PM
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I just installed they CC stage 3 with an AP1 flywheel in my car and I have an novi 1200 with the 3.4 inch pulley and I'm going to tune my car on Tuesday.

I hope it will holds up fine and I'm going to let you know what it feels like.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Just want to try to add something. No disrespect to junky, but a clutch's ability to hold torque isn't a function of the flywheel weight, it is related to friction material and the strength of the springs in the pressure plate. e.g. Flywheels aren't rated on their clamping force. Now, I believe at one point there was a pressure plate manufacturer that used weights on the springs and as the flywheel,pp spun the weights exerted more force on the springs increasing clamping force.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 07:13 PM
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I'm looking for:

Reliability and low/no chatter.

If the ACT pp is crank walk free. I'm cool with that.

I do not want a puck disc.
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 07:29 PM
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I'm going the ACT HD PP and oem disc route. But then again just going on what Billman suggested. And its just to support a SOS stage1.
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by bruthaboost
Just want to try to add something. No disrespect to junky, but a clutch's ability to hold torque isn't a function of the flywheel weight, it is related to friction material and the strength of the springs in the pressure plate. e.g. Flywheels aren't rated on their clamping force. Now, I believe at one point there was a pressure plate manufacturer that used weights on the springs and as the flywheel,pp spun the weights exerted more force on the springs increasing clamping force.
You simply misunderstand what im saying with the relationship between lighter and heavier Flywheel inertia and its effects on a clutch. What your describing is not what I said. In different terms, since you apparently didn’t grasp my analogy on the Motorcycle/bicycle wheels, with less effort you can alter the speed of a lighter object over a heavy one, and since the motor/flywheel are spinning, the clamping duty from the clutch requires less effort or AKA less holding capacity needed on initial bite with a lighter flywheel to alter its speed, which is what’s happening when you release and engage the clutch between gear changes. Clutch longevity goes up as a result, as well as some clamping ability most notably between shifting gears where a weak clutch shows its face first.

Also a clutches capacity to hold trq is not the job of the friction disc, it’s the PP duty. This is why for example a stock OEM disc hold 380trq when coupled with a ACT PP, or any higher capacity PP. The friction disc doesn’t provide any clamping force, it only provides a friction material to grab to the PP mating surface with the backing force of the PP. As long as the friction disc is in good shape and provides the minimal friction needed to grab the flywheel and PP surface properly, it will sustain the ability to the hold the clamping force delivered by the PP which is what determines the clutches trq capacity. Also the springs in the disc are only there to dampen the engagement force when actuated, and provide no clamping force. No disrespect to you, but you need an education on this subject before you can properly disagree on my explanations.
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