Based on the graph, boost and afr is showing steady so its contradicting whats been said. Based on the power drop off, my first guess would be belt slip as well, but the graph shows boost is still climbing to redline.

 

Its afr and boost both. afr is the line showing steady across and boost is the one showing a steady climb to 9k.

On a side note, thats a hell of a power dip where vtec changes, it appears you would gain a lot by lowering vtec to about 4k rpm. This would make the power curve completely linear. A good SC tune looks that way. I'm starting to suspect the talent tuning this car rather then the equipment.

12psi on your set up typically yields 380whp on the average dynojet. 400whp at 15psi.

 

I 2nd what Junky said...lower the vtec engagement point to about 4k and work on the vtec engagement fueling settings as it seems bit too rich now. As for A/f the graph does not show the value but I dont see any deviation at the end for the intended a/f value they tuned for so it does not indicate fuel starvation. Boost levels does not drop either. Whats your max timing on the at 10-14psi for that tune? If its too conservative it can affect.

 

I'm not sure what the timming is. I will ask them to lower the vtec to 4K and lean out the vtec engagement and see what happens. Will keep you guys posted.

 

One degree of timing lost 30 hp on my mates set-up so if there to conservative check with other sc owners.

 

Wouldn’t surprise me if they are tuning way too conservative because of the 91 oct. Fact is on a centrifugal at these moderate boost levels, there just isnt that much timing retard needed from the OEM timing map due to how progressive a centrifugal builds boost with rpm, its really ideal if your trying to avoid detonation. Turbo is completely different. Comptech doesn’t even pull any timing on their base 6psi kits and they have proven rock solid with a stock motor. At 12psi peak, you’re only adding about 1psi per 500rpm on top of that. Its not a lot to have to compensate for. If they are retarding timing too much, it will cause combustion temps to go up and can burn exhaust valves, which is counter intuitive to running a conservative tune. Really, there is a right tune, not conservative or aggressive, but a proper. I would expect to see no less then about 18-20 degrees total at redline with your boost. Generally you should see a fairly steady progressive timing retard from 1-2 psi to redline. So as boost increases, timing is retarded incrementally. A great tune will show some variance in this, but generally timing should fall incrementally to boost climbing on a centrifugal set up. Lowering vtec likes more timing increase compensation on a NA car, with this SC set up it can usually be a wash, not needing to start puling timing until after 5.5k rpm or so, depending on pulley size.

 

Not try to thread jack, but I have a similar set-up
I swapped a 04 2.2L into my AP1, just got a base tune last week so I could get a feel for the new motor. Just running 4-5lbs and hope to go to a 3" pulley and hope to get 380-400ish
Novi1K
CT headers
T1R sparrow
SOS 70m throttle body, hon data intake manifold gasket, SOS 3-bar
AEM V1
ID1000s


Any other parts I should look at buying to improve on my set-up

 

Nope not really, looks like you got it pretty well covered. Just get a good tune.

Post up a dyno when you get the 3" in.

 

How about a 3 bar map sensor, 255 Walboro and PP/clutch?

 

Well....after install of the new map sensor and wiring the fuel pump to the battery. Its making less power. I'm pretty upset. The tunner Did say he was being conservative on the tune because he was experiencing knock at the higher rpms. It only manage 315whp.