I did read it...nowhere on your post stating the turbo was already on your car and doesn't say it's at your tuner either....

maybe i'm just a big dummy and can't see for shit...or maybe you need to reread your post.



peace
David

 

"taking a stock clutch into account"

Doesn't mean well hmmm maybe I should just wait and put the clutch in.

It means take a stock clutch into account.

 

If your lucky, you MIGHT be able to get away with 300rwhp turbocharged with stock clutch for a little bit. For high PSI tuning, your going to have to go back and get it retuned once the new clutch is in. No way will it hold 18PSI.

 

I understand that. I just wanted to know what psi I should be looking for to maintain the integrity of the stock clutch for about a month. Just a little side note:
The original owner of this kit PRS2K ran 9.5 psi on a stock compression motor at 350 rwhp and did that and 12.2 1/4 mile times with 1.8 second 60 foot times on the STOCK clutch, and his car had 80k+ on it. My car only has 46k. Knowing that and the way I drive seems promising that the stock clutch will hold at 320-33 which is what I am aiming for.

 

well you can't really ask "what PSI should I run" as all cars are different and will make different power with the same PSI.

You should more be asking "At what torque level should I have my tuner call it quites until my new clutch goes in.?"

 

Boost pressure alone is not an accurate indicator of flow (therefore HP). It is the difference in pressure (DP) across the engine that is proportional to flow. When you subtract the pre-turbine exhaust backpressure from the boost pressure you are left with DP. If you have a small turbine or restrictive exhaust, that raises backpressure, which reduces DP, which reduces flow (and therefore HP).

Slimjum and Spec Ops are right, clutches are rated by torque capacity, not HP. As to how much torque the stock clutch can handle, it depends on how you use it. If you launch hard or shift hard, then the clutch is trying to go from fully disengaged to engaged while fighting a large torque load. If you only stomp on it after the clutch had had time to fully engage, it will last longer. And the engine will only produce as much torque as you direst it to do with the gas pedal. This means NO hard launches nor power shifts, and a little restraint with the throttle, may keep you on the road until you upgrade clutch.

If your tuner starts getting clutch slip during tuning pulls, tell hime to back off and save what's left of the clutch so you can drive it. If the clutch is slipping, you can't tune it since the clutch slip is limitimg torque, not he tune, So there is no use to continue attempts at tuning, you'll just further degrade the clutch. If that happens, you have no choice but to do tuning after the clutch is replaced.

 

The tune was done off of the wastegate spring. Which I think is 7 pounds. The car did not engage vtec and had a small oil leak from a stripped thread on the oil reloction kit. max hp came at 6500 221hp and torque was 181. I guess the low cam is good up until 6500 then the hp levels off and torque falls off badly. I would post the dyno sheet but don't have a camera.
There is almost a 20hp increase from 6k-6.5k interesting to know honda made the cam good until 6500. Too bad my vtec wouldn't kick in. The solenoid was fine but it was low on oil which is why I assumed it didn't kick in. I go back for the rest of the tune on Tuesday. At least they got all of the lowcam tuning done.

 

221 ain't bad at all, its only 60hp less then the greddy turbo kit and thats without vtec or the high camshaft

Just messin with all you greddy lovers