If the tank stays 100% sealed all the time you will run into problems. I dont usually see this in the s2000. I have in other cars though

 

A lot of S2000's have been running around with AEM's and various other stand alones for years now, so it doesn't seem like an issue, or surely we'd have come across it by now. But I will continue to follow this and implement whatever is figured out, sure can't hurt!

 

I just want to do it right. I've read a lot of people on here have issues with this specific problem... Running the EMS, with the system in place, smelling fuel to the worst, the charcoal canister filling and leaking gas.

I don't want to take it all off and vent it only to have my garage smell heavily of gas when the car sits over night.

I've read that just venting it is a bad thing because 1. durning an accident (roll over mainly) the gas could pour out and possibly ignite. 2. I've also read that a little pressure in a gas tank (around 2psi?) helps reduce cavitation and helps the fuel pump not have to strain.

If I can leave the operation system in place and have it work, that's obviously the perfect solution. If we can't figure it out, and I have to remove it, then so be it. I don't want my tank getting large amounts of pressure in it from it seeing boost, and I don't want it seeing a vacuum like state either. The evap is what controls that.

 

Maybe I can just find a vented gas cap and remove and close everything off.

Hopefully I can find one that's not just open all the time, but has some sort of a valve that only opens with a certain pressure, like say a few PSI.

 

I like the idea of this... just not the price...

http://www.fuelsafe.com/store/fuel-d...ent-valve.html

 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...prod/prd98.htm

 

I am having the same strong fuel problems. I especially notice it on a warm day under boost. The smell is clearly coming from the canister . I also have AEMv2. Any suggestions or solutions on this topic? Should I just remove the EVAP system?

 

The canister could be saturated. Back when I worked at dodge we'd get cars in with fuel smells in the summer and that was the most common problem.

With evap inop you shouldn't get any smells

 

I thought my canister was the source if fuel odor, but it's my fuel lines weeping. I need to replace them with PTFE hose. Maybe it's the o-ring gasket for your fuel pump. You might want to check there.

 

Man, I have a lot of threads I need to update...

I opted to just take off everything and go mechanical instead of messing with the sensors and solenoids. I used that $130 2 way check valve in my #15 post. Expensive, but it worked. I bought the stock plastic in tank vent thing from a forum member and figured out how it worked from running tests on it.

Once everything is removed, you'll be left with 2 hoses. A large and a small coming from the tank to the bottom of the car. I ended up leaving the large tube open to atmosphere with a foam fiter on it. It ONLY sucks air in from my testing. It will help replace air in the tank as the pump sucks the fuel. The small line is what does the pressure releasing/venting. It can also suck air in, but it's not as fast to react as the larger hose.

I tested this on the car by removing everything sans the lines, and just leaveing it to sit. My garage smelled heavily of fuel. With the 2 way vent valve in place, I haven't noticed any fuel smells in my garage. I let it sit for a few days and then opened the fuel cap. I didn't get the large rush of air sound, so I know the valve is doing it's job of releasing pressure, but not letting the smell of fuel vapors out. If it had not worked, I'd have gotten the large rush of air as I was taking the cap off.

It does hold a small amount of pressure in the tank (verified by testing), which is a good thing to combat cavitation and help the pump not have to... suck as hard (loss of words).

Sorry for the long windedness. Hope I've helped everyone! Now go out, take the evap stuff off and watch the world burn! LOL.