i just reread what you posted. get to a tuner stat that nows WTF they are doing. you have to tell teh aem software what map sensor you are using. then you also have to tell teh software what units to use to display boost/vac. i am wondering it he slaped that new sensor in there, and never reconfigured shit for it.

that T, you need to see if there is a missing hose. otherwise, get rid of it. but.......be cautious. with boost reading wrong, you really have no idea what is what. get it checked out! ask aem if they have a tuner somewhere near you that knows how to install and use it.

 

the car itself has been driving great. I am pretty sure he configured the aem ems for the 3.5 bar map sensor. He was recommended from aem as the tuner to go to. He did not put the gauges in, I did myself and just loaded the base 3.5 calibrations. Btw I did change the hose without the T's and the car drove smooth however it felt down on power. So for the time being I am keeping it with the t's until I can get to a tuner. The car itself has been driving fine for over 4000 miles so I feel no concern with the tune. I hope this makes some sense.

 

Perhaps he was going to install the boost gauge or a pressure regulator of some kind off of that tee? look for a loose vacuum/pressure tube.

 

I dunno I guess I will have to call him and ask. The car does feel stronger with the t's in it though seems weird to me

 

My guess is it feels stronger because with an open pressure line your wastegate is not being opened.

If you have the ProGauge software I have a set up file for the serial gauge that will give you what you want. I also have the AEM 3.5bar MAP.

 

hey aus, I do indeed have the progauge software. If you can email me the file I would greatly appriciate it. Also would the open pressure line cause much problem? I am just going to leave everything as is until I move back to florida next year and have someone more knowledgeable look at it and retune it. BTW my email is tejsakaria@yahoo.com

 

some people install the T fittings if they want to boost beyond their wastegate spring rating, and don't want to hook up a proper bost controller (manual or electronic).

The T fitting bleeds off the pressure, effectively holding the wast closed longer, allowing for higher boost levels to build.

I would not remove it until you confirm with your installer/tuner that it was intentional. If you remove it, your tune will be dumping fuel like its still there and running higher boost level than you actually are). You wil run pig-rich up top.

I would seal it up, but would make sure your tune is not relying on it to run properly as is.

As far as setting up the gauge, your installer did not scale it correctly if it is not reading the correct boost up top. The software I think just messes with the range of displayed values (min/max), not the scaling. The scaling is within the EMS software, not the gauge software. The gauge just reads what the EMS tells it to read. The values appear to be wrong from he EMS in the case of your weird boost readings.

Also, the serial gauge reads vacuum in PSI, not in InHG like most others.

Lemme know if you need anything else. I got 1 serial installed myself, and am putting a second on in today.

 

thanks for the help, I am not sure why he had the open t's there us actually 2 on the vacuum line. However he is the one who installed it and tuned it so it must be there for a reason. Now there was a vacuum line running from the top port of the wastegate running to the intake manifold but inline had told me that is not needed and to take it out. I did that and the car is still running fine. The car itself runs fine the same it had run the day I picked her up from him. I just wanted to read the boost reading properly
My guess is if a problem hasn't occured yet after 4000+ miles it should be ok. I am just making sure for long term it will be ok. Winter is coming up soon any how so it will be stored for 6 months

 

The t's are an old school way to up the boost without getting a boost controller.

 

i coulda sworn that whatever the ems is told to display units in, is piped into the serial gauge. it only displays what the ems tells it to. i will try it out as soon as i get the car running again.

as for the t fitting, no matter which way the car was tuned, it will rely on what boost it sees in the manifold and then send fuel according to that. if he is using boost compensation map, then more boost more fuel. if he tuned each load point and rpm point, than again if the car runs less boost it will go to the table and send fuel based on the new lower load point. ems wont send fuel for 10psi if ems is seeing 8psi boost, unless tuner said **** it and all load points above 0 are the same amount of fuel, which would be really stupid. it will look at fuel map, see Xrpm and Ypsi and go to that cell in the map and do that.

ignition map is the same way