S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Another SOT install thread......

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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:59 AM
  #11  
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[QUOTE=MugenRioS2k,Jun 9 2009, 11:03 AM]

You don
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:16 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by vader1,Jun 9 2009, 11:59 AM
I found some pretty detailed pics in a search here and it looks easy enough so I may remove the bumper rather than work in tight spaces.
Yes it is easer to install the front HX with the bumper removed but some people are apprehensive about removing body panels.

As always let me know if you run into some snags and I will help walk you through it over the phone.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:35 AM
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I have a moss manifold and standard pcv system. the moss mani port is welded up like SXM suggested. i recently installed a oil/water seperator on my car via the oem pcv/system way. am i hosing anything up?

that stuff just made my head hurt.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:40 AM
  #14  
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Oh by the way.......I believe I am going to need new plugs, no? What is the recommended variety? I will be stopping by the auto parts store on the way home.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by roy365,Jun 9 2009, 12:35 PM
that stuff just made my head hurt.
Ryan when you come in to have the clutch put in I will make sure your PCV/ separator are in the correct configuration.

PCV>separator>manifold is correct nothing wrong with that however with the separator you can now reroute the vac line to the vacuum block instead of the manifold; this makes it so there is no chance to push any boost past the PCV valve.

For an A2W setup the port on the Moss manifold was not necessary which is why it welled up. At least to the info I had at that time.

The port is only really useful on a A2W setup or if you just want to use it as another vac/pressure port.

I have been considering trying a A2A setup to test out throttle response and system IATs and now wish I would have left the port on the manifold. Because there will be idle droop with that much throttle volume.

Assuming both cool adequately
The A2A is a passive system and has more head room for increasing the boost pressure then the A2W setup. And give more room to integrate a water injection system.
However the trade off is decreased throttle response; for me that is fine since I am using the car more for autoX and usually it on the floor anyways; but on the street there would be slightly less throttle response then the A2W setup. You would not notice the change unless you drove a a2w and a a2a setup back to back but no the less there is a change in the performance form such a large throttle volume.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 10:58 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by vader1,Jun 9 2009, 12:40 PM
Oh by the way.......I believe I am going to need new plugs,
NGK 2668 ( BKR8EIX)

Gaped to .030"

they should last over 10K miles.

The last set I had in I changed at 9K and they still look brand new.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 11:00 AM
  #17  
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Thanks
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 11:29 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by MugenRioS2k,Jun 9 2009, 10:56 AM
Ryan when you come in to have the clutch put in I will make sure your PCV/ separator are in the correct configuration.

PCV>separator>manifold is correct nothing wrong with that however with the separator you can now reroute the vac line to the vacuum block instead of the manifold; this makes it so there is no chance to push any boost past the PCV valve.

For an A2W setup the port on the Moss manifold was not necessary which is why it welled up. At least to the info I had at that time.

The port is only really useful on a A2W setup or if you just want to use it as another vac/pressure port.

I have been considering trying a A2A setup to test out throttle response and system IATs and now wish I would have left the port on the manifold. Because there will be idle droop with that much throttle volume.

Assuming both cool adequately
The A2A is a passive system and has more head room for increasing the boost pressure then the A2W setup. And give more room to integrate a water injection system.
However the trade off is decreased throttle response; for me that is fine since I am using the car more for autoX and usually it on the floor anyways; but on the street there would be slightly less throttle response then the A2W setup. You would not notice the change unless you drove a a2w and a a2a setup back to back but no the less there is a change in the performance form such a large throttle volume.
Thanks Mark! I am dropping the car off Thursday at SXM. They advised it might be the weekend before any work gets going. So it'll be there a few days.

I havent noticed anything "wrong" with it after the seperator install. But since you understand the routing and purpose of these parts better, it would be nice if you could take a look.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:01 PM
  #19  
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Slight progress.



Installed the heat exchanger pump and did some wiring. Maybe its dark in my garage, but it looks stealthy. Draws very little attention as compared to some front mounts. I like the result.

This part SUCKED. First, the instructions are being revised so they could have been better. But lots of pics from previous installs were included so it helped some. You basically just need to figure out how to mount the pumps to clear the fan. I just winged it. The kit was missing some pieces for this stage. The directions referenced a 3/4 spacer (no where to be found) so I chopped a small bit of plywood (yes plywood) about one square inch to be my spacer. Some bolts were missing, and a couple nuts too. I have LOTS of washers though. I think someones kit is going to have lots of nuts and bolts in the intercooler pack, but very few washers. I will put in a better spacer when it is convienient. Its easy to get to seeing as how I destroyed my plastic cooling plate cutting it to fit after the heat exchanger.

I figured I would run into a missing bolt here or there so I bought a big bag of random nuts, bolts and washers. The kit looks really complete, but I think since part have changed on the IC end of things this can happen.

Glad to have this behind me. I think the rest of the kit will be much easier. I think getting the blower onto the braket will be the hardest remaining part. Its heavy and its a tight squeeze. But I have read the directions twice and looked at all the parts bags and it the rest seems pretty straight forward.
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Old Jun 9, 2009 | 09:09 PM
  #20  
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Removing the bumper cover was easy. I found a good tutorial with a search. It was off in 5 minutes.





Full frontal nudity




And here are the pumps. I could not get them to clear the intercooler well the way the bracket are. I used a grinder to grind the ends off and they are mounted with a single bolt, lock washers and torqued pretty snug. I don't think they are going anywhere, they are pretty light.


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