What clutch setup are running or plan on running? Also your exhaust setup?

 

This year, stock. I don't plan to do lots of drop clutch launches and have only 28k on the car now. Since I only put a few thousand miles a year on it, I am hoping to get through this year without issue. WLaurent has been running stock clutch and diff for something like 20,000 miles now.

I might change the exhaust to maybe a Mugen if I can find a used one or a Fujitsubo. I'd like it to breath a little easier but I am too old for a loud exhaust. The Walbro fuel pump is too loud for me.

 

the IC cam straight from PWR Usually the IC go to SOT first then they add some additional bolts and hardware.


Give me a parts list of what you need and I will get them to you.

You cut the factory air guide?

Try mounting the pump sideways with the outlet pointing up.

The will move the fat part of the pump away from the center of the fan hosing giving more room.
Draw from the bottom of the HX into the center port on the pump and the outlet up to the OEM manifold side port on the IC Barall.

When you go to put the blower on the main bracket in the car have some one help you the assembly with the blower it is reasonably heavy; its nice to have an extra hand or to two help with this part.

You can do it by your self but again it always nice to have a couple of friends around.

Mugen AP2 exhaust I droped .5-.75 psi with that exhaust proof that it flows better then stock

 

No need for parts, the one missing were bolts and nuts and I bought some. I am ok the way the pumps are mounted, it is similar to some of the pics that were sent to me by James at SOT. I am going to see if I can find a piece of rubber to use as my spacer which will help prevent slipping around, but the hoses and everything fit nicely after this was done so it works.

I TRIED to cut the factory air guide. I no longer fits with the exchanger in place. I tried to nibble away at the plastic that was being interfered with, but it was a big chunck. With that section removed I was flexing it to wriggle it in and it just split in two. I am going to fabricate a new one out of something when I have time. (and no, I won't use plywood this time.)

 

The kits we hade installed in AL the car has had an after market radiator cooling plates install and the factory air guide already removed.


The kit James installed at SOT did not require the air guide to me modified.



As long as you are happy I am happy....

 

I dunno, the instructions said remove cooling plate at the begining of the directions, it would not fit back in over the bracket that is holding the intercooler to the crossmember. There were no pictures of how the brackets mount, but the way the holes were drilled into the brackets, there seemed to be only one logical way to mount it.

The brackets were thick and now filling up two holes that were previously used for plastic tabs in the cooling plate. Don't know if I did it right because of the lack of good documentation in the instructions, but the finished product looks just like the pics once the bumper went back on.

I would post a pic of my crank pulley install but that would just be a picture of this receipt. Time to start pulling stock parts out of the car and relocating things.......

 

i took my bumper off, i was reluctant, with the yanking and shit, but it came off and went back on just fine.

if you ever decide to do water injection and 11psi , the fender comes off with out removing the bumper. just a FYI

 

My bad, printed instructions had older version of parts , newer parts do it a different way. Instructions showed map sensor mounted to the spacer, parts have changed to improve sensor function and there was an included bracket to mount the sensor somewhere else.

Mark called me and walked me through it. Thanks Mark.

My screw up.

 

they mighta changed the design.

 

intake manifold spacer...


are you referring to the dummy TB..

if you are there should be a hole in it for a vac line.

The MAP sensor is not mounted directly to the dummy TB like the way the OEM one does.

It mounts to the driver side on a bracket. With a vac line ran to the sensing port on the MAP sensor.

This it to dampen out some of the rapid changed in Voltage the stock MAP sensor has when not being used with the factory TB. There is a small capillary in the OEM TB that normal performs this function. With the dummy TB that capillary is not there so the air in the short vacuum line preformed this damping function.