Warmer temps make the afr run richer, so that's not related to your issue, although I believe it can cause an increase in fuel pressure, and if your already at the threshold of what your injectors can emit through proper atomization from your jacked up fpr, then that can be aiding in your inconsistent lean running. You say you have no more turns left on your fpr?... its post is level (or close to) with the lock nut? If so that is a problem, your fuel pressure will get wacked out at that point and cause erratic afr, counter productive to your cause. To much pressure and fuel injectors cant take it and can get stuck or perform erratically. The new fuel pump could have made things worse in that case, so backing off the fpr/fuel pressure should help. Something else to check is that the fuel line from under the fpr is not kinked.

If all else fails and you simply have more breathing mods at 7psi then what the injectors can emit, then you need to reduce the flow/efficiency, which means drop one psi or put the cat back on.

One question, is this an f20 or f22? And do you have the right fpr for that motor? They are different.

 

This was with the new fb340?

 

Like I said earlier, my friend was having the same lean issue and replacing his tp fixed it.

I know the ap1 and ap2 regulators have the different pistons for different fuel curves, but how can you tell from the outside what application the FPR is for? When I talked with ct, they mentioned that it would be more cost effective to buy a new FPR than to rework my old one because the lower half of the housing would have to be changed out.

Maybe by finding out the circumstance or diameter of the lower half of the housing we can determine the FPR?

 

not trying to jack your thread

Where can i get the intake elbow for the CTSC?>

 

Lol, checking out my part list, it says it's $59 directly from comptech.

Call them up.

 

Good question James0933. I don't know if mine is AP1 or AP2. The kit was originally ap1 but FPR was supposedly AP2 and new per the seller. How do I find out?

F22 motor since I'm an AP2

 

I went through this with CT a couple years ago, rather then rework my ap1 fpr I decided it was better to just replace with an ap2. It made a nice improvement in fuel delivery. I never got around to looking into how to distinguish them apart. Part of the problem is also that visually from the outside, this regulator had slightly different housing changes over the years, but had nothing to do with what it was calibrated for internally for the ap1/ap2.

 

Just got off the phone with Nate. On the underside of the fuel pressure regulator there should be 2 to 3 digits which will tell you which model it was made for. You can use a flash light and a mirror to get under there and to get that number. He told me to get back to him so he can let me know if it was designed for an AP1 or AP2

Ill do that tonight.

S2000Junky/Jame0933 could you guys take a look at yours and let me know what numbers are written on the bottom of your FPRs?

 

I believe mine is for an ap1, but I'd love to know for sure.

Mine has 13 on it.

 

Will the FPR make that much of a difference though? I do believe mine is an ap1...or was at least adjusted to 7 psi for an ap1.

When I bought it for my ap2, I had to make no adjustment whatsoever. 11's before vtec, 13s engagement, and 12-12.5 after all the way to redline.

I just purchased a Vafc to mess with vtec though.

What should the target AFR be?