Ap2 temp question
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Olyphant, Pa
Ap2 temp question
Im wondering about the temp gauge on the ap2 .
This is the usual temp
This is how high it gets when sitting idleing or driving in warm weather. Is this normal?
Mods are vortech v2 with SOS front mount heat exchanger and haltech ecu
This is the usual temp
This is how high it gets when sitting idleing or driving in warm weather. Is this normal?
Mods are vortech v2 with SOS front mount heat exchanger and haltech ecu
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
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The car is already overheating with those temps, i would recommend adding an Air Dam to help with the air flow going in the radiator, i was having similar heating issues, due to the blockage of the radiator with the inter cooler, once i did this mod the heating issues went completely away, the air dam is from a C5 Corvette
Now i cruise at 199 with ac on, in 113 degree weather
Also it will help to add two Spal fans
Now i cruise at 199 with ac on, in 113 degree weather
Also it will help to add two Spal fans
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 0
From: Olyphant, Pa
The car is already overheating with those temps, i would recommend adding an Air Dam to help with the air flow going in the radiator, i was having similar heating issues, due to the blockage of the radiator with the inter cooler, once i did this mod the heating issues went completely away, the air dam is from a C5 Corvette
Now i cruise at 199 with ac on, in 113 degree weather
Also it will help to add two Spal fans
Now i cruise at 199 with ac on, in 113 degree weather
Also it will help to add two Spal fans
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 669
Likes: 16
From: Burbs of Philly, PA
According to the pic below you are within the 235 degree range and overheating unless you did the Modifry ECT mod, which I feel that you did not do. To get a more accurate reading you should be reading temps off of your EMS or other sensor plumbed in the cooling system.
Have you opened up your cooling system lately?
If yes, you may have air in your system and it should be bled.
[attachment=25193:Stock Temp Gauge.gif]
Have you opened up your cooling system lately?
If yes, you may have air in your system and it should be bled.
[attachment=25193:Stock Temp Gauge.gif]
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 669
Likes: 16
From: Burbs of Philly, PA
You may still have air in the system. It doesn't hurt to bleed it. At least that way you can eliminate that as being an issue.
This is the only way to bleed the system, courtesy of Billman250. I have tried doing it the way it says in the Honda Helm manual and it never worked.
Post number 5 in this thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/876...#entry20698653
Here it is in more detail:
Have plenty of Honda 50/50 premixed coolant (blue stuff) at your disposal.
Make sure your reservoir is toped off to the full hot line.
Turn your heater A/C temp control to full hot (no need to have fans on).
Get your car up to normal operating temp. (when the fan comes on but don't let it overheat. You may rev the engine a little to expedite this process.)
Shut the car off.
Locate the coolant bleed bolt. (found on the top front of the intake manifold, it will have a hole in the middle).
Stuff a rag below the area where the bleed bolt is located so that the coolant doesn't drip below.
Lay a rag just above the bleed bolt to act like a tent (if you have air in your system it will spit coolant and air out and it will go everywhere).
Open the bleed bolt slowly. If you have a lot of air in the system you'll hear a hiss as air is escaping if you see a stream of coolant come out keep the bolt open. Air bubbles may be stuck in the system that need to work it's way out. SIDE NOTE: What I like to do is close the bolt and pull out and change the bottom rag after about 8-10 seconds of the bolt being open because it will get saturated with coolant quickly. Then just open it again and continue.
Leave this bolt open until all the pressure is relieved (no more coolant or air is coming out of the hole. Make sure that all the pressure in the system is relieved this way or else hot coolant will come spewing out when you open the radiator cap.
Close the bolt.
Open the radiator cap and fill coolant to the top and reinstall the cap.
Start the car and repeat this whole thing at least 3 times to ensure that all the air is out.
Having super hot air blowing out of your heater vents is a sign that your system is properly bled.
Hope that helps.
This is the only way to bleed the system, courtesy of Billman250. I have tried doing it the way it says in the Honda Helm manual and it never worked.
Post number 5 in this thread:
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/876...#entry20698653
Here it is in more detail:
Have plenty of Honda 50/50 premixed coolant (blue stuff) at your disposal.
Make sure your reservoir is toped off to the full hot line.
Turn your heater A/C temp control to full hot (no need to have fans on).
Get your car up to normal operating temp. (when the fan comes on but don't let it overheat. You may rev the engine a little to expedite this process.)
Shut the car off.
Locate the coolant bleed bolt. (found on the top front of the intake manifold, it will have a hole in the middle).
Stuff a rag below the area where the bleed bolt is located so that the coolant doesn't drip below.
Lay a rag just above the bleed bolt to act like a tent (if you have air in your system it will spit coolant and air out and it will go everywhere).
Open the bleed bolt slowly. If you have a lot of air in the system you'll hear a hiss as air is escaping if you see a stream of coolant come out keep the bolt open. Air bubbles may be stuck in the system that need to work it's way out. SIDE NOTE: What I like to do is close the bolt and pull out and change the bottom rag after about 8-10 seconds of the bolt being open because it will get saturated with coolant quickly. Then just open it again and continue.
Leave this bolt open until all the pressure is relieved (no more coolant or air is coming out of the hole. Make sure that all the pressure in the system is relieved this way or else hot coolant will come spewing out when you open the radiator cap.
Close the bolt.
Open the radiator cap and fill coolant to the top and reinstall the cap.
Start the car and repeat this whole thing at least 3 times to ensure that all the air is out.
Having super hot air blowing out of your heater vents is a sign that your system is properly bled.
Hope that helps.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 70
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Originally Posted by jjjimene' timestamp='1344545121' post='21925484
The car is already overheating with those temps, i would recommend adding an Air Dam to help with the air flow going in the radiator, i was having similar heating issues, due to the blockage of the radiator with the inter cooler, once i did this mod the heating issues went completely away, the air dam is from a C5 Corvette
Now i cruise at 199 with ac on, in 113 degree weather
Also it will help to add two Spal fans
Now i cruise at 199 with ac on, in 113 degree weather
Also it will help to add two Spal fans
Here you go....
The air dam is about 60 plus shipping and i got it from this website
My link
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,419
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From: Olyphant, Pa
Just bled it. Still doing getting hot mainly when coming to a stop. Does the ecu have anything to do with it? Would making the fans come on sooner do anything or an upgraded rad? Any input and help is appreciated
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
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By letting the fans come on sooner will do nothing because the problem is that the stock fans do not move fast enough to remove the heat from the radiator, this is why you need SPAL
