zaff

Just like the thread title states, are headstuds necessary when you have stock internals with a turbo kit? Its been suggested that ARP headstuds are TOO strong for the F20/22c head. There have been questions as to ARP headstuds not GROWING WITH THE ENGINE, therefore the head blows because of the head torquing. Anyone or everyone please elaborate on this subject. Both sides welcomed to comment.

camuman

how much boost do you intend to run and with what fuel?

zaff

My goal is 400 whp on 91 octane.....

camuman

stock bolts are fine. no need for head studs

zaff

Would you suggest Cometic 2-3mm head-gaskets? I've been told I'll be wasting my time. How about if I built the head with Super-Tech valve springs and retainers? Does this change?

camuman

stock untouched motor for 400whp. if your ap1 some people say that either its the valves or the valve retainers that are weak. maybe replace those if your concerned. but i wouldnt touch the motor at all. i am ap2 stock unopened motor.

passmans2kny

do not open the motor, you can run 400-500 all day everyday safely

Redline S2K

^^These men speak truth.

zaff

Thanks for all the replies. Here's another question:

If my goal is 400-450whp, is a T3 sufficient turbo? Or should I do a hybrid T3/T4 turbo? Or should I do a T4 turbo?
Also what kind of manifold should I use? Front mount? Top mount? Full Race ram horn?

zaff

Thanks for all the replies. Here's another question:

If my goal is 400-450whp, is a T3 sufficient turbo? Or should I do a hybrid T3/T4 turbo? Or should I do a T4 turbo?
Also what kind of manifold should I use? Front mount? Top mount? Full Race ram horn?