ARP studs and nuts
#1
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Thread Starter
ARP studs and nuts
Anybody know if ARP makes studs and nuts for our car to bolt the manifold?
Specifically, I got the inlinepro turbo manifold but it doesn't matter, stock or turbo manifold.
Specifically, I got the inlinepro turbo manifold but it doesn't matter, stock or turbo manifold.
#3
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jul 20 2006, 11:52 PM
I'm sure ARP could round you up some, but most use the OEM studs. I don't think there is much to gain from swapping out the OEM studs. 99% of the turbo users still use OEM studs.
I have had 3 studs break so far.
I did tighten them close to torque specs but they kept getting loose so I went over the specs to about 35 ft lb and 3 broke so far, not while I tightened them but over time w/ the heat and cold and pulling and pushing.
driving me nuts.
#6
You know, the bolt/stud snapping is actually a good thing. If they hadn't snapped you might have ripped the threads right out of the cylinder head. You put these sweet looking ARP studs in there and overtorque and you might end up in a world of hurt. I wouldn't ever go much over stock torque. If they come loose, I'd use a thread locker/metal self locking nuts.
#7
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Originally Posted by Ek9,Jul 21 2006, 08:45 AM
You know, the bolt/stud snapping is actually a good thing. If they hadn't snapped you might have ripped the threads right out of the cylinder head. You put these sweet looking ARP studs in there and overtorque and you might end up in a world of hurt. I wouldn't ever go much over stock torque. If they come loose, I'd use a thread locker/metal self locking nuts.
but i need to come to a solution to this BS
thread locker did not work as it is like butter w/ the heat.
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#8
Are you using a hondata gasket or the stock one? With my Hondata, I'd go back in and re-torque every now and then until the plastic gasket had taken a set. If you use studs, you can use the metal self locking nuts which are immune to heat.
If you think about what keeps a bolt tight, it's the stretch of the bolt. So, like a rubber band it's trying to unstretch itself which is why a properly tightened bolt doesn't tend to come loose. It it's coming loose even when tightened properly, I'd be looking for a source of vibration getting to the manifold. You see this all the time with aftermarket turbo's on Miata's and the factory turbo's on DSM's. The turbo isn't braced right so, the vibration loosens the turbo mounts and manifold bolt.
I was thinking about getting a set of those ARPs because they look so damn cool.
If I'm interpreting the diagram properly, the stock bolts are 8x28's and the studs are 8x25.
Man they aren't cheap. 400-8031 16 pack is $130 US at summit racing
If you think about what keeps a bolt tight, it's the stretch of the bolt. So, like a rubber band it's trying to unstretch itself which is why a properly tightened bolt doesn't tend to come loose. It it's coming loose even when tightened properly, I'd be looking for a source of vibration getting to the manifold. You see this all the time with aftermarket turbo's on Miata's and the factory turbo's on DSM's. The turbo isn't braced right so, the vibration loosens the turbo mounts and manifold bolt.
I was thinking about getting a set of those ARPs because they look so damn cool.
If I'm interpreting the diagram properly, the stock bolts are 8x28's and the studs are 8x25.
Man they aren't cheap. 400-8031 16 pack is $130 US at summit racing
#10
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Jul 21 2006, 10:08 AM
Venomous S
Are you using the new OEM nuts when you did the install?
Are you using the new OEM nuts when you did the install?
Ek9
I'm using a honda intake gasket but im talkin about the manifold here.
And those bolts that you mentioned from summit are the replacement studs for the stock studs and nuts for the exhaust manifold? If so I guess I'll have to call ARP and they if they are higher grade. That's what im looking for. A higher grade stud that withstands breakage a bit more.
As far the turbo not being braced as mentioned. It's the inline pro kit and unlike the stock header which has a brace that connects to the side of the engine. There is nothing else that holds the turbo/downpipe still so the movement from the exhaust just loosens everything up, even with a flexpipe.