ARP studs and nuts
Yeah, I was thinking intake manifold for some reason.
So, my sizing comments are for the intake manifold. The ARP studs are an upgrade over the crap hardware the Japanese use. Basically the Japanese bolts are just strong enough but, no stronger.
This is the stock exhaust stud
BOLT, STUD (8X38) NO COLOR 2.12 1.60
400-8032 was the ARP part number I was looking into.
I think you're going to have problems no matter what bolt you use until you can brace the turbo. Sounds like the exhaust manifold's just a big lever to the turbo which flexes the head to manifold joint as it's running.
So, my sizing comments are for the intake manifold. The ARP studs are an upgrade over the crap hardware the Japanese use. Basically the Japanese bolts are just strong enough but, no stronger.
This is the stock exhaust stud
BOLT, STUD (8X38) NO COLOR 2.12 1.60
400-8032 was the ARP part number I was looking into.
I think you're going to have problems no matter what bolt you use until you can brace the turbo. Sounds like the exhaust manifold's just a big lever to the turbo which flexes the head to manifold joint as it's running.
Originally Posted by Ek9,Jul 21 2006, 01:38 PM
Yeah, I was thinking intake manifold for some reason.
So, my sizing comments are for the intake manifold. The ARP studs are an upgrade over the crap hardware the Japanese use. Basically the Japanese bolts are just strong enough but, no stronger.
This is the stock exhaust stud
BOLT, STUD (8X38) NO COLOR 2.12 1.60
400-8032 was the ARP part number I was looking into.
I think you're going to have problems no matter what bolt you use until you can brace the turbo. Sounds like the exhaust manifold's just a big lever to the turbo which flexes the head to manifold joint as it's running.
So, my sizing comments are for the intake manifold. The ARP studs are an upgrade over the crap hardware the Japanese use. Basically the Japanese bolts are just strong enough but, no stronger.
This is the stock exhaust stud
BOLT, STUD (8X38) NO COLOR 2.12 1.60
400-8032 was the ARP part number I was looking into.
I think you're going to have problems no matter what bolt you use until you can brace the turbo. Sounds like the exhaust manifold's just a big lever to the turbo which flexes the head to manifold joint as it's running.
And yeah I believe you are right about the brace here. Unless its braced this won't stop.
I'm just reading the blurb I see above it says "exhaust systems".
The honda stock stud is 8x38 and the 400-8032 is also 8x38. So, I'm deducing that that 400-8032 would be a possible replacement for the stock stud. You may have to do you own research if you're not comfortable with that.
The stock stud is $1.60 US from Honda, the ARP stud, washers and nuts (which the picture implies comes with the stud but, may not) works out to $8.13 a stud.
The honda stock stud is 8x38 and the 400-8032 is also 8x38. So, I'm deducing that that 400-8032 would be a possible replacement for the stock stud. You may have to do you own research if you're not comfortable with that.
The stock stud is $1.60 US from Honda, the ARP stud, washers and nuts (which the picture implies comes with the stud but, may not) works out to $8.13 a stud.
Originally Posted by Ek9,Jul 21 2006, 02:50 PM
I'm just reading the blurb I see above it says "exhaust systems".
The honda stock stud is 8x38 and the 400-8032 is also 8x38. So, I'm deducing that that 400-8032 would be a possible replacement for the stock stud. You may have to do you own research if you're not comfortable with that.
The stock stud is $1.60 US from Honda, the ARP stud, washers and nuts (which the picture implies comes with the stud but, may not) works out to $8.13 a stud.
The honda stock stud is 8x38 and the 400-8032 is also 8x38. So, I'm deducing that that 400-8032 would be a possible replacement for the stock stud. You may have to do you own research if you're not comfortable with that.
The stock stud is $1.60 US from Honda, the ARP stud, washers and nuts (which the picture implies comes with the stud but, may not) works out to $8.13 a stud.
I will work off those numbers
Originally Posted by Ek9,Jul 21 2006, 03:15 PM
The pitch and length is listed in the shop manual too. I looked there first.
just gotta brace the thing first. Don't wanna spend all that money on bolts and have them break
Are the studs breaking when you torque them to factory spec, or just when you go over the torque spec? Otherwise they are working loose?
I'd be looking at the manifold to make sure there is expansion room around each mounting hole, the manifold shouldn't be tight on the any of the studs. If the flange is currently warped it's going to do the same. make sure it's flat, and I'd probably cut expansion slots through the manifold flange where you can.
Then fab up a support brace for the turbo !!!
Moving to FI as well
I'd be looking at the manifold to make sure there is expansion room around each mounting hole, the manifold shouldn't be tight on the any of the studs. If the flange is currently warped it's going to do the same. make sure it's flat, and I'd probably cut expansion slots through the manifold flange where you can.
Then fab up a support brace for the turbo !!!
Moving to FI as well
Am I the only one that has a problem with the nuts coming off of my manifold? I have lost three in the past two months or so and this has been after I have re-tightened them down. I don't think that loctite would work, anyone have any ideas?









