Best DIY Battery Relocation
#21
Registered User
If your crimpers don't cost >$100 they aren't for big wire. Indexed crimpers with matching lugs are 100% dependable. I crimp wires the size of my wrist that carry 4160v with hydraulic crimpers. It's all technique.
I solder everything I can under the hood because it's a hostile place for connections. The problem with large wire is that you burn it up trying to bond it. The solder is usually cooked and weak at that point too. Now what I do is lightly tin the skin of the wire and the inside of the lug. Crimp it, and then, just to help out, solder the edges. You have to do it quick, and if the solder is dull and gray looking, it's not doing anything. it's like sweating copper pipe. Just my .02
I solder everything I can under the hood because it's a hostile place for connections. The problem with large wire is that you burn it up trying to bond it. The solder is usually cooked and weak at that point too. Now what I do is lightly tin the skin of the wire and the inside of the lug. Crimp it, and then, just to help out, solder the edges. You have to do it quick, and if the solder is dull and gray looking, it's not doing anything. it's like sweating copper pipe. Just my .02
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by SgtB,Jul 15 2009, 07:14 PM
If your crimpers don't cost >$100 they aren't for big wire. Indexed crimpers with matching lugs are 100% dependable. I crimp wires the size of my wrist that carry 4160v with hydraulic crimpers. It's all technique.
I solder everything I can under the hood because it's a hostile place for connections. The problem with large wire is that you burn it up trying to bond it. The solder is usually cooked and weak at that point too. Now what I do is lightly tin the skin of the wire and the inside of the lug. Crimp it, and then, just to help out, solder the edges. You have to do it quick, and if the solder is dull and gray looking, it's not doing anything. it's like sweating copper pipe. Just my .02
I solder everything I can under the hood because it's a hostile place for connections. The problem with large wire is that you burn it up trying to bond it. The solder is usually cooked and weak at that point too. Now what I do is lightly tin the skin of the wire and the inside of the lug. Crimp it, and then, just to help out, solder the edges. You have to do it quick, and if the solder is dull and gray looking, it's not doing anything. it's like sweating copper pipe. Just my .02
I sell compressors with large 4160V motors up to 1500 HP but I have never seen 4160V that big.
Yes, that is the problem with crimping is haveing the correct tools. I did find that some people use a hammer crimper, which is reasonably priced. Have you used a hammer crimper before?
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/items/i...itemid=5229952
#24
Originally Posted by SgtB,Jul 15 2009, 10:14 PM
If your crimpers don't cost >$100 they aren't for big wire. Indexed crimpers with matching lugs are 100% dependable. I crimp wires the size of my wrist that carry 4160v with hydraulic crimpers. It's all technique.
I solder everything I can under the hood because it's a hostile place for connections. The problem with large wire is that you burn it up trying to bond it. The solder is usually cooked and weak at that point too. Now what I do is lightly tin the skin of the wire and the inside of the lug. Crimp it, and then, just to help out, solder the edges. You have to do it quick, and if the solder is dull and gray looking, it's not doing anything. it's like sweating copper pipe. Just my .02
I solder everything I can under the hood because it's a hostile place for connections. The problem with large wire is that you burn it up trying to bond it. The solder is usually cooked and weak at that point too. Now what I do is lightly tin the skin of the wire and the inside of the lug. Crimp it, and then, just to help out, solder the edges. You have to do it quick, and if the solder is dull and gray looking, it's not doing anything. it's like sweating copper pipe. Just my .02
#25
Registered User
Originally Posted by dsddcd,Jul 15 2009, 11:06 PM
4160V wire that large
I sell compressors with large 4160V motors up to 1500 HP but I have never seen 4160V that big.
Yes, that is the problem with crimping is haveing the correct tools. I did find that some people use a hammer crimper, which is reasonably priced. Have you used a hammer crimper before?
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/items/i...itemid=5229952
I sell compressors with large 4160V motors up to 1500 HP but I have never seen 4160V that big.
Yes, that is the problem with crimping is haveing the correct tools. I did find that some people use a hammer crimper, which is reasonably priced. Have you used a hammer crimper before?
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/items/i...itemid=5229952
A vice will work, but is not the best way to do it. The crimpers compress the wire in a certain way to insure that there is a proper electrical and mechanical connection..but if the vice works, who cares right.
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have been trying to drive and tune the car but the battery is getting drained in about 5-7 days. I have a new battery (2 weeks old with a 10-09 date code) and I can’t seem to figure it out.
I have installed a battery tender that maintains a 14V charge but I can't figure the loss of charge out.
I have made a lot of changes so I have no idea. The only thing I can come up with to test is to place a clamp on the battery cable and then start pulling fuses. I am going to have to look for a new Amp clamp though as mine does not have the resolution. When I clamp the main cable I am only seeing a 0.1 Amp draw but my clamp is made for high voltage and I need to get some more resolution.
Any suggestions on common causes of amp draw? What about a good amp clamp that won’t cost me a fortune?
The electrical changes I have made are:
AEM EMS 30-1052U
AEM Serial Gauge
Modifry ECT Fix
Modifry Seat Belt Lock
Battery Relocation
I have installed a battery tender that maintains a 14V charge but I can't figure the loss of charge out.
I have made a lot of changes so I have no idea. The only thing I can come up with to test is to place a clamp on the battery cable and then start pulling fuses. I am going to have to look for a new Amp clamp though as mine does not have the resolution. When I clamp the main cable I am only seeing a 0.1 Amp draw but my clamp is made for high voltage and I need to get some more resolution.
Any suggestions on common causes of amp draw? What about a good amp clamp that won’t cost me a fortune?
The electrical changes I have made are:
AEM EMS 30-1052U
AEM Serial Gauge
Modifry ECT Fix
Modifry Seat Belt Lock
Battery Relocation
#28
I also am losing battery power and my battery is also relocated. The battery used to hold charge but all of a sudden it will not hold a charge either, so I have a battery tender hooked up to it. I'm also trying to figure out what is wrong with it, any ideas?
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by s2k_suprchrgd,Nov 15 2009, 01:23 PM
I also am losing battery power and my battery is also relocated. The battery used to hold charge but all of a sudden it will not hold a charge either, so I have a battery tender hooked up to it. I'm also trying to figure out what is wrong with it, any ideas?
Where did you put the ground in the trunk?
How did you connect the cable from the trunk to the existing cables?
#30
I would be concerned that your grounds are solid enough. If there's any kind of resistance there, your battery will see a voltage drop, causing it to discharge.
Rather than solder, why not use something like the terminals used for car audio (uses set screws instead of crimp/solder)?
Rather than solder, why not use something like the terminals used for car audio (uses set screws instead of crimp/solder)?