If your crimpers don't cost >$100 they aren't for big wire. Indexed crimpers with matching lugs are 100% dependable. I crimp wires the size of my wrist that carry 4160v with hydraulic crimpers. It's all technique.

I solder everything I can under the hood because it's a hostile place for connections. The problem with large wire is that you burn it up trying to bond it. The solder is usually cooked and weak at that point too. Now what I do is lightly tin the skin of the wire and the inside of the lug. Crimp it, and then, just to help out, solder the edges. You have to do it quick, and if the solder is dull and gray looking, it's not doing anything. it's like sweating copper pipe. Just my .02

 

4160V wire that large

I sell compressors with large 4160V motors up to 1500 HP but I have never seen 4160V that big.

Yes, that is the problem with crimping is haveing the correct tools. I did find that some people use a hammer crimper, which is reasonably priced. Have you used a hammer crimper before?

http://shop.genuinedealz.com/items/i...itemid=5229952

 

[QUOTE=dsddcd,Jul 15 2009, 08:57 AM]Please do, I would love to see as many itterations as possible.

 

I just use a table vice, it works well and that shit doesn't come off

 

That tool looks good. It should do some decent crimps, but I'd worry about the connector bending at the crimp. Not a big deal. "Big Red" is some huge cable. it's about 12lbs per foot depending on the gauge. It's cut with a portaband. Amperage is a factor too. Most of the bigger stuff is run from a substation way across the plant, so it's bigger to compensate for the voltage drop.

A vice will work, but is not the best way to do it. The crimpers compress the wire in a certain way to insure that there is a proper electrical and mechanical connection..but if the vice works, who cares right.

 

nice write up

 

I have been trying to drive and tune the car but the battery is getting drained in about 5-7 days. I have a new battery (2 weeks old with a 10-09 date code) and I can’t seem to figure it out.

I have installed a battery tender that maintains a 14V charge but I can't figure the loss of charge out.

I have made a lot of changes so I have no idea. The only thing I can come up with to test is to place a clamp on the battery cable and then start pulling fuses. I am going to have to look for a new Amp clamp though as mine does not have the resolution. When I clamp the main cable I am only seeing a 0.1 Amp draw but my clamp is made for high voltage and I need to get some more resolution.

Any suggestions on common causes of amp draw? What about a good amp clamp that won’t cost me a fortune?

The electrical changes I have made are:

AEM EMS 30-1052U
AEM Serial Gauge
Modifry ECT Fix
Modifry Seat Belt Lock
Battery Relocation

 

I also am losing battery power and my battery is also relocated. The battery used to hold charge but all of a sudden it will not hold a charge either, so I have a battery tender hooked up to it. I'm also trying to figure out what is wrong with it, any ideas?

 

Did you do any other work at the same time?

Where did you put the ground in the trunk?

How did you connect the cable from the trunk to the existing cables?

 

I would be concerned that your grounds are solid enough. If there's any kind of resistance there, your battery will see a voltage drop, causing it to discharge.


Rather than solder, why not use something like the terminals used for car audio (uses set screws instead of crimp/solder)?