Blowing dipstick
#1
Blowing dipstick
Im venting my my dual radium engineering catch cans to atmosphere and still blowing my dipstick. @13.5-14psi
Is there a tuturial to remove a 07 pcv valve with something a little bigger like the front one. I want to start there as that seems the simplest way to improve ventilation.
Try running a little less baffle in the cans to relieve restriction. Cant remember whats in there or if i can even access that compartment.
Just wondering how others modified the pcv port with more flow. Its seems to be a good 1/4" smaller then the front one.
Is there a tuturial to remove a 07 pcv valve with something a little bigger like the front one. I want to start there as that seems the simplest way to improve ventilation.
Try running a little less baffle in the cans to relieve restriction. Cant remember whats in there or if i can even access that compartment.
Just wondering how others modified the pcv port with more flow. Its seems to be a good 1/4" smaller then the front one.
#3
I have the same problem. Both pcv and front port to a vented catch can and still blow up dipstick. No major oil consumption issue. Last comp test was a little low but 190-195 all across the board. Is it the rings? Is this somethingnto be worried about? Any simple fixes?
#4
Id be suspicious. Ive heard of guys having issue with this, even not boosted. I never have with the several motors my car has seen over the years. I have always run the front breather port to atmosphere and left pcv in place, no catch can needed, no issue with dipstick popping out. I ran 18psi supercharged this way.
#6
Might be worn o-rings on the dipstick?
If you went to atmosphere you might as well remove the PCV valve and replace it with at straight barbed fitting.
It's a M14x1.5 hole so should be easy to find something that threads in, I'm using one of these myself M14x1.5 METRIC to 12mm 13mm BLACK BARB PUSH HOSE TAIL Straight Fuel Pump Fitting eBay
If you went to atmosphere you might as well remove the PCV valve and replace it with at straight barbed fitting.
It's a M14x1.5 hole so should be easy to find something that threads in, I'm using one of these myself M14x1.5 METRIC to 12mm 13mm BLACK BARB PUSH HOSE TAIL Straight Fuel Pump Fitting eBay
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R00567 (07-14-2017)
#7
I have the same problem. Both pcv and front port to a vented catch can and still blow up dipstick. No major oil consumption issue. Last comp test was a little low but 190-195 all across the board. Is it the rings? Is this somethingnto be worried about? Any simple fixes?
Simple fix: No
You need to do a leakdown test. Comp gauges can be inaccurate depending on what brand you are using. A leakdown test will show you exactly what you have. My ap1 had 180-185 comp.The car ran fine though and didn't burn oil. But it leaked 45% at the rings and was blowing the dipstick up. Rings were trashed.
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#8
I removed my pcv valve and run -8 lines on both to the catch can. I can pull my dipstick out pretty easily maybe the o rings on it are worn but not allowing the pressure to escape would make things worse no? If it doesnt escape thru the dipstick hole its probably gonna go thru the next path of least resistance maybe the rings?? I also noticed if i turn my dipstick around itll push in more snuggly and wont pop out, but again, this makes me think maybe allowing the dipstick to pop up and relieve pressure may be a good thing.
#9
Something to be worried about : Yes
Simple fix: No
You need to do a leakdown test. Comp gauges can be inaccurate depending on what brand you are using. A leakdown test will show you exactly what you have. My ap1 had 180-185 comp.The car ran fine though and didn't burn oil. But it leaked 45% at the rings and was blowing the dipstick up. Rings were trashed.
Simple fix: No
You need to do a leakdown test. Comp gauges can be inaccurate depending on what brand you are using. A leakdown test will show you exactly what you have. My ap1 had 180-185 comp.The car ran fine though and didn't burn oil. But it leaked 45% at the rings and was blowing the dipstick up. Rings were trashed.
#10
It requires full block dismantle and re hone. In other words its more cost effective to find/buy a complete used low mile engine and drop it in. Do a simple leak down test and see if your rings are sealing or not. Compression is only half of the equation.