Boost with 11.5:1 compression setup
Okay, so I rebuilt my motor recently, It has been sleeved, with 87mm 11.5:1 JE pistons
What I am trying to determine is weather to go SC or Turbo, and how much Boost can a sleeved block with 11.5:1 can take, for everyday driving.
Thanks for any input
What I am trying to determine is weather to go SC or Turbo, and how much Boost can a sleeved block with 11.5:1 can take, for everyday driving.
Thanks for any input
Well, the sleeves won't be the weak link at that cr. The issue will be detonation if the boost is too high.
What are you using for fuel and timing management? Where will the tuning be done? On a dyno?
Avoiding detonation is a balancing act among timing, air/fuel ratio, boost level and compression ratio. And you have to manage all that at all different engine speeds and loads.
What are you using for fuel and timing management? Where will the tuning be done? On a dyno?
Avoiding detonation is a balancing act among timing, air/fuel ratio, boost level and compression ratio. And you have to manage all that at all different engine speeds and loads.
well I am already running 93 octane with octane booster cause of the higher compression ratio. So I guesstimate the octane it around 100.
What would you suggest for engine management?? I used Hondata on my del sol and loved it. But the K-Pro is just a bit pricey for me, plus I really don't want to have to change out all the sensors.
Alamo in Arlington, Texas will be tuning it, they are awesome they use a dynojet.
I will also be using a wide band O2 sensor, most likely PLX
I am just trying to deside SC or Turbo?? I know both are totally different Monsters
What would you suggest for engine management?? I used Hondata on my del sol and loved it. But the K-Pro is just a bit pricey for me, plus I really don't want to have to change out all the sensors.
Alamo in Arlington, Texas will be tuning it, they are awesome they use a dynojet.
I will also be using a wide band O2 sensor, most likely PLX
I am just trying to deside SC or Turbo?? I know both are totally different Monsters
They both work well. A turbo as u may know takes time to build boost, and uses spent exhaust gases. a sc will have boost almost instantly.
a turbo is easily upgradeable, where as you are limited on the amount of boost your sc can make. it really depends on power goals and whether or not you want to make more power down the road.
im interested to see what good tuning options we have other than hondata too
a turbo is easily upgradeable, where as you are limited on the amount of boost your sc can make. it really depends on power goals and whether or not you want to make more power down the road.
im interested to see what good tuning options we have other than hondata too
Hi compression and FI doesn't go well together. The nature of FI is to compress air before it goes into the combustion chamber. I'm no expert but I think it's better to have low engine compression and let the turbo/ SC do the compressing. If you insist on the high compression you would want really low boost. You'll probably yield more power from high boost/ low compression than vice versa. But like I said, I'm no expert. Lol.
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You can run 12-15+ psi all day long on that compression ratio with an SC and water/meth injection. I'm running 10psi at stock compression with no timing retard without detonation, still on the OEM timing maps. Go with a AEM EMS and their injection kit. You can run strait PEAK washer fluid for a 70/30 mix of water to meth which will drop your ait/egt and inhibit detonation through much higher octane then what you are spending your money on with booster. Stock HG is the best, I see guys on the FI threads all the time blowing aftermarket HG.
The AEM water/meth injection has a safety output to the EMS that will switch to a safe map should you run out of PEAK or there is another issue with the kit. Do some research on water/meth injection and I think you will find a cult fallowing. Like several have stated before me, everyone who is FI should be running the stuff, especially considering the performance/safety you get for only $400 for the complete working kit you can install yourself.
The AEM water/meth injection has a safety output to the EMS that will switch to a safe map should you run out of PEAK or there is another issue with the kit. Do some research on water/meth injection and I think you will find a cult fallowing. Like several have stated before me, everyone who is FI should be running the stuff, especially considering the performance/safety you get for only $400 for the complete working kit you can install yourself.
Originally Posted by s2kswe,Jun 4 2009, 02:25 PM
E85 or racefuel






