Uh no, he can get a used 1012, 1052, or 1052u the differences are minor, look at Sideways hes running a 1012 on his 500whp vortech sc setup

 

so many people are on so many different pages here... im laying out what i should get, and currently i am looking for a shop that can tune, i can install the SC my self with one of my friends no problem, its the tune thats gonna be a bitch... i dont know of ANYWHERE that does tunes at all around columbia SC, and ive looked around and made some calls

 

[QUOTE=Importedpower,Aug 16 2010, 01:52 PM] Ok, to sum it all up, im having my engine checked out soon, and im going to either turbo or SC the engine.

 

I was not saying anything else was inferior...just a recommendation since the wiring/install is more simple for serial gauge

 

Not only you, there are many guys have to drive few hours to get a tune. Post on local section, they can help you more than this section.

 

thanks for info, ive heard not to launch them, i was wondering how difficult it would be to get something a bit stronger for that one? i was going to get a new clutch, i got a hardtop coming, and i was looking at wheels and coilovers aswell... but i havent seen much bout the launch issues other than i shouldnt do it

 

I'll say from experience here with the 1052U here...

There is a reason why when they made the 1052U, they made it as an option. Now they don't even make it as an option for the series 2.

why?

Because the 02 sensor has been known to not work properly after awhile, and if your running your car to read off of that sensor to make those calculations for you, and it fails...you can guess what it will do with the air/fuel mixture.

I've had 2 aem 1052U's and both times *without my knowledge* the 1052U was set to NOT read off of the sensor and only read within what the tuner tuned the car on.

That's why it's better to get a 1052 and get a separate stand alone wideband.

AEM has even admitted this as well...

I was def kinda confused because you'd think that it would be good to make the calculations per what it reads for most efficiency, but because of the failures and cost...they decided to nix it and just cut the UEGO option when they made the series 2.

maybe one day they can do something about it

 

You can use a different O2 sensor other than the one that comes with AEM (Sensors --> Oxygen Sensor --> O2 Sensor #1). I am not debating what EMS is best, I was just making a suggestion to the OP because he was concerned about gauges . I retract my original suggestion.

 

It's not just the o2 sensor but i understand what your saying.

 

If you don't blow your rear diff normally when you buy a new one they will give you a core for your stock one. Although it still isn't cheap and if you don't do it yourself I'm sure it would easily be over $1000 for a diff that wouldn't be much better than stock. Not to mention if you have some power there is otherstuff besides the diff that can go out.

I don't plan on putting a new diff in myself because I don't want to pay to get it done and I don't like doing work under the car. I don't have a lift or impact tools and everything is rusted on. It's rare that you hear people blowing the diff without launching the car and if you do they probably track the car hard and put down lots of power.

If you put a blower on it might have to come off to put the clutch in so I would do the clutch first otherwise you might be in the same boat as me.

I would wait on parts unrelated to your FI set up. When buying gauges and fixing little minor problems that come up you might spend more than your planning. Wheels and coilovers also probably aren't going to do much performance wise. People normally get wheels for looks or tire selection and the stock suspension is great. I believe people normally only get coilovers for their adjustablity for the track and that some aren't any better than stock. Although I'm not sure about this.

good luck. Sorry for the spelling im just in a hurry.

btw. If you installing a wideband you need to weld a bung for the sensor. I found the easiest way to do this is to either buy a HFC with an extra bung or a testpipe and weld it in there. This held my install up a few weeks because all my exhaust bolts were rusted on and a special torch was needed to weld the bung. that plus shipping time.