S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

BOV Install ?

Thread Tools
 
Old Nov 28, 2012 | 07:01 PM
  #11  
CoolGuy094's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 10
Default

Earth worm Jim- Excellent job, its exactly what I am working towards only mine will be one piece, not welded. Can you measure the overall height of the piece from the side that mounts to the AC to the opposite end? My only concern is making it too short and the bolts not fitting into the holes. Yours looks pretty short, I'm glad to see it can successfully be that short. And yes if you have a picture of the clearance to the metal fan support please let me see it. Thanks!

Edit- just saw your note about having to install the bolts before welding. I am hoping to avoid this and may know a way. Knowing the height of your flange would still be useful though.
Reply
Old Nov 29, 2012 | 01:46 AM
  #12  
E4RTH WORM JIM's Avatar
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,927
Likes: 30
From: East Yorkshire
Default

It needs to be short so it fits behind the radaitor.

You may be able to extend the length (5mm approx) so the cap head bolts can be inserted afterwards. I fitted mine before welding as I wanted the maximum space behind the radiator as I'm thinking of upgrading to a larger unit so needed the clearance.

You'll be able to engineer it so the bolts can be fitted after

I will take some measurments and photos of my engine bay later today for you.
Reply
Old Nov 29, 2012 | 02:51 AM
  #13  
starrman's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: Eastern NC
Default

What if the design angled the outlet back towards the engine? Then the length would not be as important, it would clear the fan and the bolts could easily go in and out.
Reply
Old Nov 29, 2012 | 04:21 AM
  #14  
CoolGuy094's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 10
Default

Originally Posted by starrman
What if the design angled the outlet back towards the engine? Then the length would not be as important, it would clear the fan and the bolts could easily go in and out.
it's a good idea, but would make it much more difficult to machine. Thanks Jim I look forward to your pictures and measurements.
Reply
Old Dec 2, 2012 | 02:06 AM
  #15  
E4RTH WORM JIM's Avatar
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,927
Likes: 30
From: East Yorkshire
Default







If you look at picture two, you can see that I've had to bend fan mounting (I did that when fitting my old HKS BOV), but it's helped with clearance on this BOV too.

From the mounting face on the AC to outer lip where the BOV connects it's 26mm

You could extended it by a couple of mm and that MIGHT give you enough clearance to insert the bolts afterwards. It will be close. PM if you need anymore help />/>
Reply
Old Dec 3, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #16  
CoolGuy094's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 10
Default

Thank you so much Jim, you have been a huge help.

I plan on slotting the holes that the bolts go into so that you can just slide them into place... this will basically negate the height of the flange itself. I should be able to get the same height that you have by using this method.



Also trying to see if I want to change hardware... I guess you used a ball-end allen wrench to tighten yours down? Or a stubby allen wrench? Cause a standard allen wrench doesn't look like it will do. Thought about using hex bolts, but the hex head will be too large (from the sources I have found). Here you can see the front-most allen bolt is placed with the bottom of the bolt flush with the bottom of the flange. Plenty of room left up top to get the bolt into position and tighten finger-tight.

Reply
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 04:34 AM
  #17  
E4RTH WORM JIM's Avatar
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 5,927
Likes: 30
From: East Yorkshire
Default

If you use a good quality set of ball headed alley keys the angle is fine and the bolts can be tigthen with no issues.

Rememeber an insert needs to be cut into the back of the mounting plate so a gasket can be fitted between the AC and mouting plate, so you get a good seal. If you look at the back of the original mount you will see what I mean.

Your design looks good

Let me know if you need anymore help />
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 06:20 AM
  #18  
CoolGuy094's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 10
Default

Yep, I have the o-ring groove modeled in on the back of the square flange; just can't see it from any of my screenshots so far. Thanks again Jim.

Not sure of when I will be able to cut these parts, but I sourced some scrap material that should work and have been given the clear by our apps manager. Now if I could just find the time to do it!
Reply
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #19  
LandR's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
Default

sack it up and weld on the flange. Bring your car by next time you are in raleigh and i will weld it on for you.

Will post pics of mine (welded it on saturday)

-Sam
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2012 | 05:48 AM
  #20  
starrman's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,256
Likes: 2
From: Eastern NC
Default

Any progress?
Reply



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:27 AM.